Tag: fashion

The Life and Legacy of Harry Stedman

As Port premieres exclusive images from Harry Stedman’s SS15 lookbook, David Hellqvist and designer Amy Greenland trace the life of the Liverpudlian man that inspired the brand

Harry Stedman SS15

In menswear, as in life, it’s crucial to balance the influence of ‘heart versus brain’. As a menswear designer, both have to be respected. If not, you’ll end up with a pitch-perfect craftsmanship that’s amazing in quality but lacking in soul and honesty.

Harry Stedman, a British men’s brand based in east London, has found the perfect balance. The brand was founded in 2011 by Stedman’s son and grandson, Phil and Rick, and is inspired by his sailing adventures in 1950s as well as a five-year-stint in Africa. As such, the brand is a “love letter to Harry and his utilitarianism, adventure and eye for style.”

As a sailor in the Merchant Navy, Stedman needed a sturdy and functional wardrobe. This kind of ‘workwear’ is essentially a uniform for the working classes, that is built to last. Today, the Harry Stedman brand looks to mix the sartorial qualities of that era with the life and memories of this particular man. Thanks to the rigorous quality control employed by designer Amy Greenland the clothes are durable and full of ‘heart’, as each collection tells a different chapter from Harry Stedman’s eventful life.

Stedman’s life as a globetrotter allows Greenland to take inspiration from all over the world, but it’s the beating heart of Liverpool’s music and fashion scenes in the 50s, mixed with the preppy and classic varsity culture of the US east coast, that continues to inform the brand. As Harry Stedman prepares to launch its Spring Summer 2015 collection, we spoke to Greenland about the label’s DNA and what key pieces to look out for.

Harry Stedman SS15

Harry Stedman SS15

What can you tell us about Harry Stedman?

Harry is an ordinary man who has led an extraordinary life. He is an archetypal scouser full of determination, passion, grit and quick wit. We look back on his adventures, his working life, the everyday clothes – which he would regularly alter and modify – and his Sunday best. Absorbing everything about his past, how he lived and how he worked informs our creation of garments for the Harry Stedman men of today.

How would you define his style?

Clothes had to have a purpose in Harry’s life as they were his tools for survival. He was obsessed with the small details of menswear: the softness of a natural shouldered jacket, the roll of a Brooks Brothers collar… People used to stop him on the streets in Liverpool over that one. However, Harry was no Madison Avenue advertising executive; he worked in hard physical conditions. His suits were smart but he was always more comfortable in his a white t-shirt, leather jacket and chinos – a mix of American workwear picked up from New York dockers and cool casuals that formed his weekend wardrobe when off duty in North Africa.

“Harry is an ordinary man who has led an extraordinary life. He is an archetypal scouser full of determination, passion, grit and quick wit”

There is an equal focus on clothes and culture from the USA and Britain in your SS15 collection. What elements have you taken from each country?

During his time as a sailor Harry soaked up local culture wherever he travelled, particularly from New York. During the 50s and 60s, New York broke new ground in every walk of life – especially in clothing, most of which hadn’t been seen in Liverpool before. The city exposed Harry to sartorial discoveries such as workwear, fine Brooks Brothers shirting and the American collegiate Ivy League aesthetic. Our varsity jacket, 50s button-down shirts, 16.5oz White Oak Cone Mills denim jeans and solid classic cotton t-shirts reflect these styles, all of which are made in the USA.

To pay homage to Harry’s roots we also look at UK trends from the same era, mainly around solid workwear worn by Liverpool’s dockworkers who would switch to smarter clobber at the weekend known as ‘your Sunday best’. The three-button 50s workman jacket, peacoat and gansey knit all illustrate our British inspiration. They’re made in the UK using British fabrics, celebrating the craftsmanship and quality of manufacturing over here.

There’s a slight nostalgic, 50s feel to the collection. Would you still describe it as a modern brand?

Yes, it’s a modern brand. We respectfully look to the past to inform our designs, with a particular – but not exclusive – focus on the 1950s and 60s. There were some really strong menswear looks that were born in the 50s and they’ve stood the test of time. We’ve analysed these styles, allowing them to shape the bedrock of the Harry Stedman brand you see today. Blending old with new, with the inclusion of contemporary fabrics and clever design helps to achieve a modern style that resonates with today’s discerning gent.

Harry Stedman SS15

“Clothes had to have a purpose in Harry’s life as they were his tools for survival”

Harry Stedman SS15

What was the idea behind SS15 and what was the main inspiration?

For each collection we design we try and move one chapter on in terms of Harry’s story, as each season Harry grows a little older… For SS15, we focused the collection around Harry returning home to sunshine and good times after another one of his long trips out at sea. The mood of the season is more laid back and chilled than AW14, allowing us to explore Harry’s more playful side. It provides a nod to the off-duty Harry – smart and easy garments perfect for the changeable spring/summer months, with an emphasis on quality not quantity.

What are the key pieces from SS15?

The Drizzler jacket remains a key piece, available in lighter weight cloths that stand against the ever-changing British weather. We have also introduced a new ‘Made in the UK’ striped classic t-shirt, adding a strong monochrome look amongst lighter textures and colour palettes in the range. The more casual navy zip slicker and sand coloured workwear jacket bolster the collection and insert the stylish yet utilitarian elements that are a constant thread throughout all our collections.

Any new styles, shapes or fabrics this season?

The orange mac is a completely new style this season. The shape reflects the A-line style of the 50s and 60s with functional details like the hidden trouser entrance pocket. The outer material is a Ventile cotton fabric that gives fantastic protection against wind and showers while remaining lightweight. Soft terry toweling features on our raglan beach t-shirts and lighter shirting has also been introduced. The three-button 50s workman jacket with a relaxed shoulder is the latest addition to the collection in a linen/wool twill, and features barre striped lining with horn buttons.

More info on the SS15 collection is available here

Text by David Hellqvist
Photos by Damien Van Der Vlist

Harry Stedman SS15

Pal Zileri AW15 Film

Pal Zileri’s new creative director, Mauro Ravizza Krieger, employs bold visuals for his Milan presentation


It’s difficult to stand out in Milan; countless brands compete for the attention of buyers, press and, ultimately, the consumer. Most designers take to the catwalk to make an impression and, although it often works out, it’s a big expense for a 10-minute extravaganza. As press, it’s difficult to grasp the finer details of the pieces and to fully appreciate the quality of the garments. That’s why presentations work so well. Whether static or with movement, you get to experience the brand up close. The Pal Zileri AW15 presentation is a case in point. The Italian brand’s creative director, Mauro Ravizza Krieger, took the opportunity to showcase solid wardrobe pieces, the kind of garments that keep on giving… especially when they are made in the finest Italian factories.

“Classicism is the foundation of Pal Zileri’s new language – an urban mix with great personality. A new brand of metropolitan elegance, a cross between tailored garments and sportswear; between holy and profane, without losing a certain sobriety,” Krieger explains. But if the collection was a demonstration in sartorial ‘back-to-basics’ bliss, the presentation firmly grounded Pal Zileri in the 21st century, as this film shows.

Daily Doodles: Y-3 AW15

Japanese cult designer Yohji Yamamoto added khaki and camouflage to his aviation-inspired collection in collaboration with AdidasDaily Doodles: Y-3 AW15

Illustration by Clara Lacy

Pigalle AW15 Inspiration

Stephane Ashpool explains his Musique Therapie collection, set in the magnificent Palais Garnier in Paris
Pigalle AW15 Inspiration

“I recently experienced that music can be therapeutic in many ways, reviving senses and feelings such as energy, patience and rest. This experience grew when I started playing world music with a portable speaker, travelling on my bike or just holding it in my hand, by myself and with my friends, day and night, in Paris and everywhere else.”

It establishes a relationship with people that is very natural, very easy, in ways that I couldn’t imagine were possible. I received hundreds of smiles and many kind words. Music can bring peace. It needs to be shared more.”

See more of our men’s paris fashion week coverage

Cerruti AW15 Manifesto

Cerruti’s creative director Aldo Maria Camillo explains the reasoning behind his back-to-basics menswear collection for Paris Fashion week
Cerruti AW15

Since my first season at Cerruti, I’ve tried to re-establish the brand’s DNA and vocabulary. It’s something I think has been lost in the last 10 years or so, but I feel that it should be talked about as Cerruti has a beautiful history.

Cerruti AW15

I’ve been working hard to readdress the focus and now the brand is centred around three main ingredients: fabrics, silhouettes and colours. We use the archives for all three, but update it for the 21st century. We research and develop new fabrics, playing with different yarns and weights, to get the perfect balance between the old and new Cerruti. In many ways this collection is a mishmash of those two. The clothes need to be contemporary, but at the same time we have to respect what came before us.

For AW15, I felt an urgent need to re-work classic wardrobe staples and make them more masculine.The pieces aren’t new per se, but we’ve updated the way they look and feel – be it on the inside construction or the texture. For example, suits, duffle coats, pea coats, bomber jackets and blousons were all given this treatment because I feel they define the male wardrobe. I then added the artistic inspiration, which, for this season, came from the German artist Joseph Beuys. I was interested in the way he used felt as a fabric and mixed that with Nino Cerruti’s idea of ‘good fabrics make a good garment’ to find the perfect Cerruti pieces. I also studied old Cerruti ads taken by Paolo Roversi where the guys are wearing fedora hats and long coats, and twisted it all to make it look new, fluid, organic and… a little bit unexpected.

“The clothes need to be contemporary, but at the same time we have to respect what came before us”

Cerruti AW15

I like the idea of adding a touch of workwear; all pieces had to have a sense of functionality. For example, if there’s an elbow patch it’s there because it’s needed. No decoration for the sake of it. Many suits are broken up but in subtle colours. The waistcoats are inspired by either hunting or fishing and feature multiple pockets, which makes them both stylish and utilitarian.

See more of our Paris fashion week coverage

Daily Doodles: Louis Vuitton AW15

Louis Vuitton’s Kim Jones looked back to London’s 1980s art scene for his Paris show, taking inspiration from the late illustrator and designer Christopher NemethDaily Doodles: Louis Vuitton AW15

Illustration by Clara Lacy

Daily Doodles: Canali AW15

Canali’s creative consultant Andrea Pompilio looked back to 1950s Milan for his check suits inspired by “power lines, tram tracks, scaffolding and crossroads”, creating a modern take on everyday eleganceDaily Doodles: Canali AW15

Illustration by Clara Lacy

Caruso AW15 Spotlight

Caruso’s creative director Sergio Colantuoni‏ on the brand’s silhouettes for next seasonCaruso AW15 collection

“Allora – the story is very simple, really. When you go around the world travelling, something changes within you. A trip abroad, going to the cinema, or even meeting your friends, all have the possibility of changing you. The idea of the collection is that not only you, but also the clothes, changes after a trip – both a short trip or the trip of your life. The shoulders, pockets, silhouette and whole outfit become a bit loose. And that’s the key theme for the next collection: everything changes.“Since Caruso is a formal brand at the end of the day, we also have a few rigid pieces. The shoulders are bigger, adding structure to the jackets. It’s a sartorial experience, so construction is very important. But that doesn’t mean it can’t be loose and baggy – I love when it’s comfortable.”

Follow our coverage of Milan Fashion Week AW15.

Boglioli AW15 Spotlight

Boglioli’s menswear design director Jay Vosoghi on the Italian brand’s key piece for AW15: a double-breasted jacket in pure silk

Pure silk jacket from Boglioli's AW15 collection
Pure silk jacket from Boglioli’s AW15 collection

There is no other country that does classic and traditional fashion like Italy. Here, ‘sartorial’ is a lifestyle, not just a buzzword used by journalists. Visit Milan or Florence, look at the average man – not just fashion insiders – and you’ll notice an unparalleled dedication to smart and formal outfits that have been adapted to everyday life. In the UK, Savile Row suits are seen as businesswear and not for leisure, but in Italy, well-pressed trousers, a narrow shirt and a double-breasted jacket are considered casual.

Boglioli is one of the key brands leading Italy’s fight against sloppy jeans and high-street suits. Here, the brand’s design director, Jay Vosoghi, introduces their latest sartorial weapon…

“For AW15, Boglioli presents its double-breasted jacket with collar in pure silk. Each jacket is unlined, allowing the jacket to breathe, while the sleeves are lined in cupro. The construction of the jacket provides structure, creating a particularly tailored fit. It’s made of raw silk that is spun and woven in Ireland and, with this in mind, there are also unique Mother of Pearl buttons that produce a ‘summer tweed’ effect. The light reflects onto this type of silk to give off an intentionally raw and more opaque effect, which is because the yarn has not been purified from the sericin that wraps it.”

Follow our coverage of Milan Fashion Week AW15.