Caruso AW15 Spotlight

Caruso’s creative director Sergio Colantuoni‏ on the brand’s silhouettes for next seasonCaruso AW15 collection

Allora – the story is very simple, really. When you go around the world travelling, something changes within you. A trip abroad, going to the cinema, or even meeting your friends, all have the possibility of changing you. The idea of the collection is that not only you, but also the clothes, changes after a trip – both a short trip or the trip of your life. The shoulders, pockets, silhouette and whole outfit become a bit loose. And that’s the key theme for the next collection: everything changes.“Since Caruso is a formal brand at the end of the day, we also have a few rigid pieces. The shoulders are bigger, adding structure to the jackets. It’s a sartorial experience, so construction is very important. But that doesn’t mean it can’t be loose and baggy – I love when it’s comfortable.”

Follow our coverage of Milan Fashion Week AW15.

Boglioli AW15 Spotlight

Boglioli’s menswear design director Jay Vosoghi on the Italian brand’s key piece for AW15: a double-breasted jacket in pure silk

Pure silk jacket from Boglioli's AW15 collection
Pure silk jacket from Boglioli’s AW15 collection

There is no other country that does classic and traditional fashion like Italy. Here, ‘sartorial’ is a lifestyle, not just a buzzword used by journalists. Visit Milan or Florence, look at the average man – not just fashion insiders – and you’ll notice an unparalleled dedication to smart and formal outfits that have been adapted to everyday life. In the UK, Savile Row suits are seen as businesswear and not for leisure, but in Italy, well-pressed trousers, a narrow shirt and a double-breasted jacket are considered casual.

Boglioli is one of the key brands leading Italy’s fight against sloppy jeans and high-street suits. Here, the brand’s design director, Jay Vosoghi, introduces their latest sartorial weapon…

“For AW15, Boglioli presents its double-breasted jacket with collar in pure silk. Each jacket is unlined, allowing the jacket to breathe, while the sleeves are lined in cupro. The construction of the jacket provides structure, creating a particularly tailored fit. It’s made of raw silk that is spun and woven in Ireland and, with this in mind, there are also unique Mother of Pearl buttons that produce a ‘summer tweed’ effect. The light reflects onto this type of silk to give off an intentionally raw and more opaque effect, which is because the yarn has not been purified from the sericin that wraps it.”

Follow our coverage of Milan Fashion Week AW15.