Japanese cult designer Yohji Yamamoto added khaki and camouflage to his aviation-inspired collection in collaboration with Adidas
Illustration by Clara Lacy
Subscribe to Port Magazine annually and receive each issue to your door.
Get PORT in printTag: paris men’s fashion week AW 15
Pigalle AW15 Inspiration
Stephane Ashpool explains his Musique Therapie collection, set in the magnificent Palais Garnier in Paris
“I recently experienced that music can be therapeutic in many ways, reviving senses and feelings such as energy, patience and rest. This experience grew when I started playing world music with a portable speaker, travelling on my bike or just holding it in my hand, by myself and with my friends, day and night, in Paris and everywhere else.”
It establishes a relationship with people that is very natural, very easy, in ways that I couldn’t imagine were possible. I received hundreds of smiles and many kind words. Music can bring peace. It needs to be shared more.”
Cerruti AW15 Manifesto
Cerruti’s creative director Aldo Maria Camillo explains the reasoning behind his back-to-basics menswear collection for Paris Fashion week
Since my first season at Cerruti, I’ve tried to re-establish the brand’s DNA and vocabulary. It’s something I think has been lost in the last 10 years or so, but I feel that it should be talked about as Cerruti has a beautiful history.
I’ve been working hard to readdress the focus and now the brand is centred around three main ingredients: fabrics, silhouettes and colours. We use the archives for all three, but update it for the 21st century. We research and develop new fabrics, playing with different yarns and weights, to get the perfect balance between the old and new Cerruti. In many ways this collection is a mishmash of those two. The clothes need to be contemporary, but at the same time we have to respect what came before us.
For AW15, I felt an urgent need to re-work classic wardrobe staples and make them more masculine.The pieces aren’t new per se, but we’ve updated the way they look and feel – be it on the inside construction or the texture. For example, suits, duffle coats, pea coats, bomber jackets and blousons were all given this treatment because I feel they define the male wardrobe. I then added the artistic inspiration, which, for this season, came from the German artist Joseph Beuys. I was interested in the way he used felt as a fabric and mixed that with Nino Cerruti’s idea of ‘good fabrics make a good garment’ to find the perfect Cerruti pieces. I also studied old Cerruti ads taken by Paolo Roversi where the guys are wearing fedora hats and long coats, and twisted it all to make it look new, fluid, organic and… a little bit unexpected.
“The clothes need to be contemporary, but at the same time we have to respect what came before us”
I like the idea of adding a touch of workwear; all pieces had to have a sense of functionality. For example, if there’s an elbow patch it’s there because it’s needed. No decoration for the sake of it. Many suits are broken up but in subtle colours. The waistcoats are inspired by either hunting or fishing and feature multiple pockets, which makes them both stylish and utilitarian.
Daily Doodles: Louis Vuitton AW15
Louis Vuitton’s Kim Jones looked back to London’s 1980s art scene for his Paris show, taking inspiration from the late illustrator and designer Christopher Nemeth
Illustration by Clara Lacy
Raf Simons AW15 Photo Essay
Photographer Patrick Lindblom travelled to the outskirts of Paris to document the Belgian designer’s Fall show
Kicking off Paris men’s fashion week, heavyweight Raf Simons continued his ‘stand up’ policy for his eponymous line. Taking over an industrial space in Ivry-sur-Seine, spectators stood to see the show while photographers shot it from a pit in between the raised catwalks.
Continuing his homage to the past, Simons used graphic messages (words scribbled on lab coats) to maintain levels of sartorial energy while the garments were shown in 70s shapes and colours. Many pieces played with the notion of what luxury fashion really means, as they came out unfinished and with raw hems. All in all, Simons’ AW15 collection perfectly mixed his love for alternative lifestyle cultures with wearable and desirable everyday garments.
Photography Patrick Lindblom