Dior’s recycled beachwear capsule with Parley for the Oceans
“You can never really go wrong if you take nature as an example,” declared Christian Dior. The designer’s love of the natural world, cultivating all manner of flora in his gardens, is well documented. Less known is his affinity with water. Born in the seaside town of Granville, Dior was lulled to sleep by the sound of lapping waves until the age of five, when he moved to Paris. His connection would only deepen as his family dutifully returned to the bracing Normandy coast for summer holidays throughout his childhood.
Partly inspired by this enduring tie, artistic director of Dior’s men’s collections Kim Jones has partnered with Parley for the Oceans for the second year in a row, creating an ingenious beachwear capsule for its AW23 collection that is composed of 96% recycled fabrics. Founded in 2012 by designer Cyrill Gutsch, the environmental NGO addresses ocean pollution though a strategy of three tenets – avoid, intercept, redesign – collaborating with brands, artists, and government and scientific bodies. Parley and the French house began a joint research project in 2019, leading to the creation of new yarns and fabrics derived from Parley Ocean Plastic, a textile resourcefully crafted from upcycled plastic debris and fishing gear recovered from coastlines and remote islands in the Maldives, Dominican Republic and Sri Lanka. Dior’s ateliers have deftly reworked the alternative to virgin polyester to produce everything from seersucker to the silky knits that we see play out in the collection. Essential summer staples in powder blues, coral, lemon and cool grey are intended to be fluidly mixed and matched; shorts, openwork tank tops, polos, relaxed trousers and a reversible jacket are elevated by the addition of wetsuits co-created with Vissla (from recycled jerseys), and a technically advanced surfboard designed together with compatriot eco-brand Notox. Shrewd yet playful, the capsule sets an example in trying to do right by our imperiled oceans, illustrating that creative, alternative production is possible with the right partner.
Dior Men’s stellar Fall 2023 collection is dramatically staged by the pyramids of Giza
In 1946, Christian Dior was at a professional crossroad. At 41 years old, he had just been offered the role of artistic director at the fashion house Philippe et Gaston by cotton magnate Marcel Boussac. Racked with doubt, he was unsure whether to instead ask to pursue the dream of opening his own house. A firm believer in premonitions, astrology and divination – he carried a string of lucky charms at all times – the evening before he was to make his decision, Dior strolled down Rue du Fabourg Saint-Honoré and almost tripped on a loose cast-iron star. “My destiny came to meet me,” he reflected, when discussing this seismic chance moment that convinced him to strike out on his own. The lucky star became a life-long talisman for the couturier, and has guided the eponymous French house ever since.
Over the weekend, as the sun set over the pyramids of Giza and celestial bodies came into focus, a dramatic runway strip showcased forms equally interstellar. Dior Men’s Fall 2023 coincided with the 75th anniversary of its debut collection, and while artistic director Kim Jones’ accomplished work is a continuum of its storied past, his gaze was fixed firmly on the future.
Its sci-fi slant – 3-D printed helmets, embroidery as futuristic armour, transparent jacquard – is balanced beautiful with traditional masculine and feminine tailoring codes; movement accentuated by the flowing silhouettes of capes, trapeze coats and demi-kilts that originate from the brand’s archive bias pleated skirt from the 50s – bonne fortune. Bags and shoes working with cannage and diamond codes sit alongside generous suit trousers, windbreakers, sequined tank tops and python-print jackets, couture seamlessly coalescing with technical outerwear detailing. A restrained grey and desert palette is occasionally disrupted by explosions of colour courtesy of engineered prints of stars and galaxies taken from NASA telescopes lightyears away.
Inevitably the striking desert setting, when paired with design flirting with futurism, calls to mind the many iterations and adaptations of Frank Herbert’s epic science-fiction text, Dune. Indeed, Jones cites the incredibly detailed and influential storyboards and proposed costume design by artists Moebius and H.R. Giger (who worked on avant-garde filmmaker Alejandro Jodorowsky’s unrealised attempt in the mid 70s) as a central inspiration.
But for all the high-frequency neoprene panelling, cocooning hoods and anodised metal finishes, it’s a collection that skilfully stratifies historical periods, notably 20th century exploration. This link was made particularly explicit by the fact the luxury brand also tied the presentation to the 100th anniversary of the discovery of Dynasty Pharaoh Tutankhamun’s tomb by British archaeologist Howard Carter.
“My interest in ancient Egypt is about the stars and the sky,” notes Jones. “It’s that fascination with the ancient world and the parallels with what we look at today; what we inherited from them and what we are still learning from the past. It links to Christian Dior in that sense and by way of his fascination with symbols and superstitions that recur throughout his life and work, one of which is the star. In both the collection and the show there is an idea of ‘guided by the stars’ and what that can entail in many ways. It’s about how the past shapes the future or an idea of the future from the past.”
The ambitious spectacle was soundtracked by Vivaldi’s ‘The Four Seasons’, reworked live by acclaimed composer Max Richter and his orchestra. Friends of Dior in attendance included Robert Pattinson, Lewis Hamilton, Sehun, Eunwoo Cha, Naomi Campbell and Daniel Kaluuya, among many others.
With its creative collision of fantasy and antiquity, stretching to space and back, Dior has gone so much further than the old adage: “Aim for the stars and you might hit the steeple.”
Paris meets LA in Dior and ERL’s SS23 collaboration
It is a Thursday evening in Venice Beach when the Dior x ERL Spring 23 collection is shown, and a nylon wave is rolling, languid and cerulean, down Windward Avenue, towards the ocean. In the crest of the wave, the audience watches models walk down its parted centre: hot-pink shorts, bare chests, fur saddlebags, logo tube socks pulled far up above untied skate shoes. Suspended above them the Venice sign glitters in the twilight, the words ‘ERL’ and ‘DIOR’ strung underneath.
Emblazoned in green and orange glitter on the fronts of slouchy polo-necks, ‘California Couture’ acts as both a title and mission statement for the collection. It’s Paris-meets-LA, Dior-grey satin suits teamed with crystal brooches and embroidered sweatshirts, quilted jackets slung over pearl-encrusted knits. There’s a playfulness here, a winking irreverence that nevertheless pays sincere tribute to the history of Dior. This desire to push boundaries is in keeping with Kim Jones’ tenure as artistic director of Dior Men’s, with previous collections taking inspiration from references as eclectic as the Beat poets, Travis Scott and Parisian statues. Jones talks about how, for this collection, he “wanted to work with someone in a different way; I wanted somebody to see Dior from a different angle.”
In this light, a collaboration with Eli Russell Linnetz, creative director of ERL, feels entirely natural. Born and raised amongst the surfers, skaters and starlets of Venice Beach, Linnetz’s chameleon-like ability to turn his hand to anything he desires – assisting David Mamet on Broadway, directing the music videos for Kanye West’s ‘Famous’ and ‘Fade’, designing the set for Lady Gaga’s Enigma tour, or voicing a character in The Emperor’s New Groove – makes him the perfect choice to embody Jones’ vision of a Dior Men’s that fuses old and new, high art and pop culture, street fashion and couture. Linnetz describes how he and Jones began by exploring the 1991 Dior archive, the year of his birth. As he puts it, “this was during Gianfranco Ferré’s period as artistic director and was a part of the history of Dior that felt completely fresh for both Kim and me.” It’s here that the collection’s maximalism originates: “a coming together of chaos and perfectionism. There’s a collision of moments in time and history throughout the collection, of cross-generational and spatial meetings in time.”
The result is a synthesis of downtown Venice Beach spontaneity and 8th arrondissement refinery, an all-American dream of Paris: surf-inspired shorts, lived-in knits and loose, silky fabrics in the colours of a beach sunset – pale pink, dusky blue, and an intense, heart stopping fuchsia. Yet all the facets that make something unmistakably, quintessentially Dior – an unparalleled flair for tailoring, the iconic Cannage motif – are there, rendered this time in satin and leather quilting, in flowing pastel suits and padded skate shoes. It is, as Jones says, “both familiar and revelatory; reaffirming why we both dreamed about working in fashion in the first place.”