Print Focus: Soulland SS16

Silas Adler discusses his visual collaboration with American artist Charlie Roberts

Charlie Roberts' painting of rapper Chief Keef
Charlie Roberts’ painting of rapper Chief Keef

I was first introduced to Charlie Roberts at an art fair in Copenhagen, two years ago. The first pieces of his I saw were big drawings of American football players, slightly naive in their style. But he can also paint photographically – he’s good enough to do both. He probably started as a photographic painter and then developed the style he’s now using, and the kind of pieces we have collaborated on. At the time I couldn’t afford to buy them, so that was that, for the time being.

About six months later, he came back to Copenhagen to put on a show of wooden sculptures. At the same time he produced a handful of A4 drawings, a lot of them in relation to sex, drugs and hip-hop, and sold them for £50 a pop… I bought four of them. We got chatting and he just seemed really keen on doing something together; he really likes when his art leaves the gallery space and actually gets ‘used for something’, as he put it.

I wanted to create a fabric with him because, to me, it was interesting to see how his art would look like as clothing material. For that, you need a really good mill, someone who can take on a challenge as it’s very complicated to replicate the colours, and the mix of colours from a painting, and then you can make it into a fabric.

There are a few different pieces made out of that fabric we’ve constructed ourselves, but we also have 10 exclusive suede jackets that Charlie hand painted. They’re art pieces in a way, more us collaborating with him than the other way around. The print you see here is the rapper Chief Keef. Charlie painted him in a room full of naked girls and here he is taking a photo of them on his iPhone. I absolutely love the hoodie that we made out of that print.

Words Silas Adler

Artwork Charlie Roberts

Spotlight: Lou Dalton SS16

British menswear designer Lou Dalton explains the utilitarian inspiration behind her oversized pockets ahead of her LCM catwalk show

Lou Dalton
Pictured: Lou Dalton

Retail is in the detail, or so the old saying goes. The same can be said for fashion in general, and nowhere is that as true as in menswear. While womenswear has always been focused on silhouettes and shapes, men’s fashion has tended to look at colours, materials and details… Not such a bad trade-off when you think about it.

Take Lou Dalton for example. The British designer has carved out a niche for her intricate menswear, full of subcultural references and nods towards military uniforms. And what defines army uniforms? Utilitarian and functional details.

A first look at part of Lou Dalton's SS16 collection, which features  oversized balloon pockets
A first look at part of Lou Dalton’s SS16 collection, which features oversized balloon pockets

For SS16, this been realised in these oversized pockets. Seen here in the early stages of design in a toile fabric, these balloon pockets show Dalton’s determination to make big changes by exaggerating the small details that we take for granted.

“One of the main elements I’ve focused on in terms of details is the pocketing. Most of the pocket are oversized,” Dalton explains. “The points of reference go from poacher’s pockets through to classic bellows pockets, exaggerated in form to veer away from the traditional, utilitarian look towards something more sports luxe.”