Designer Katie Chung explains her signature multi-coloured panelling, visible on outerwear and tops
“For AW16 we used a multi-coloured panelling technique that was inspired by the abstracted flower shapes of the collection. A key element of the collection, it features on coats, sweatshirts, shirts, jackets, as well as on fur pieces. It’s a technically demanding process with a visibly graphic result. The curvaceous lines present a more organic rather than geometric graphic.”
At its Villa Nechi presentation Tod’s introduced a new footwear detail, the Leo Clamp
“The Leo Clamp is a new symbolic accessory detail incorporating the traditional techniques of hot metal-casting,” says Tod’s design team. “Highlighting the expert craftsmanship synonymous with Tod’s shoes, the Leo Clamp has rapidly become an iconic detail for the international man who, regardless of geography and background, shares the same values of fine quality and style. For AW16, the combination of hot metal-casting and classic woven leather marries two components key to Tod’s DNA, injecting a new creative energy.”
John Ray’s LC:M presentation was all about the airdried double-faced cashmere blazers
British. Blue. Blazer. Three words that sum up the dunhill AW16 collection, or at least the jackets. When John Ray’s classic Brit brand moved in at The Savile Club over the weekend, dunhill laid out a sartorial spread of velvet, cashmere and merino wool.
Formal evening wear and a sort of dunhill version of ‘sportswear’ (think clothes to drive fast cars in) was all present, but it was the blazers that dominated. It’s not a new dunhill garment, rather a staple that’s been recreated in an array of rich fabrications including the finest airdried double-faced cashmere, doing away with the need for linings. Here, John Ray explains why the blazer is part of the dunhill DNA.
“Anytime you research you see men, beautiful men, elegant men, they always own a blazer. Double breasted, single breasted always in blue, says Ray. “There can be confusion with the definition between blazer and a sports jacket. A blazer is always blue, anything that isn’t then becomes a sports jacket. We love the blue blazer, it’s very British.”