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Get PORT in printDesigner Katie Chung explains her signature multi-coloured panelling, visible on outerwear and tops
“For AW16 we used a multi-coloured panelling technique that was inspired by the abstracted flower shapes of the collection. A key element of the collection, it features on coats, sweatshirts, shirts, jackets, as well as on fur pieces. It’s a technically demanding process with a visibly graphic result. The curvaceous lines present a more organic rather than geometric graphic.”
The Belgian designer took his showmanship to new levels at the beautiful Palais Garnier in Paris
Illustration Billy Clark
Japanese designer Junichi Abe explains his fascination with leopard patterns
“For this season I tried to combine Kolor’s graphic imagery with the idea of living in sync with nature. Motifs such as our leopard pattern express an aggressive and sensual feeling at the same time. I tried to bring a distorted mood into the collection by fusing those elements with the concept of modernity and inanimateness.”
The luxury streetwear brand brought pop culture references and military details to its Paris presentation
OAMC started out as Overall Master Cloth, a premium luxe version of American workwear brand Carhartt, but Arnaud Faeh and ex-Supreme designer Luke Meier quickly developed the concept, moved on from Carhartt and abbreviated the name. The lack of Carhartt alliance meant creative freedom: no more chore jackets needed. Since the split, Faeh and Meier have pushed the brand in an interesting direction.
It’s very hard to define exactly what they do, but OAMC certainly has cornered the ‘luxury streetwear’ market. Faeh, the former Carhartt WIP creative director who brought about the Carhartt x APC collaboration, and Meier clearly base their aesthetic on pop cultural references and, as is the case with the AW16 collection, military uniform details.
With production in Italy, Japan and Portugal, this is a high-end brand hell bent on making the finest clothes possible, without compromising on attitude and energy. These are clothes you actually want to wear. That might sound obvious, but in the context of ‘fashion week’ that isn’t always the case.
Photography Karl Hab
The Italian designer continued his monochrome quest but added graphic sportswear details for a modern and elegant look
Illustration Billy Clark
Silvia Venturini Fendi presented a modernised and poppy version of the Rome-based luxury brand, incorporating lounge details like furry teddy totes, slouchy pyjamas and shearling bucket hats
Photography Claudia Zalla
Miuccia Prada went for strong sailor theme and even injected some 18th-century pirate vibes with loose collars and oversized cuffs
Illustration Billy Clark
At its Villa Nechi presentation Tod’s introduced a new footwear detail, the Leo Clamp
“The Leo Clamp is a new symbolic accessory detail incorporating the traditional techniques of hot metal-casting,” says Tod’s design team. “Highlighting the expert craftsmanship synonymous with Tod’s shoes, the Leo Clamp has rapidly become an iconic detail for the international man who, regardless of geography and background, shares the same values of fine quality and style. For AW16, the combination of hot metal-casting and classic woven leather marries two components key to Tod’s DNA, injecting a new creative energy.”
Set in an industrial and dystopian Milanese factory space, Mauro Ravizza Krieger painted his signature modern Italian elegance with a palette of earthy tones
Photography Claudia Zalla
Last night the Japanese and German collaboration landed in Florence for its AW16 show, a partnership defined by intricate sportswear and an elaborate light show
Illustration Billy Clark
Set in an industrial and dystopian Milanese factory space, Mauro Ravizza Krieger painted his signature modern Italian elegance with a palette of earthy tones