Food & Drink

The Grill

Since the late ’80s the legendary chef has been serving authentic Italian food
at London’s iconic River Café. For Issue 24, she told Port what she cooks with at home

When Rose and I started The River Cafe we had a tiny kitchen with a four-burner oven, a fryer and a chargrill.

We both had our roots in Tuscan cooking where the grill plays an essential role – for fish, meat and vegetables.

As a substitute at home, I use a cast-iron grill pan, which gives the same intense heat. I have various sizes; the pan here is perfect for a whole fillet of beef – which I marinate first in Chianti and rosemary – or, in the summer, a side of wild salmon. The smaller one I use when there are just a few of us, for veal chops, a whole small red mullet, vegetables or sometimes just a piece of sourdough bread for bruschetta.

Quite simply, I cannot imagine my kitchen without this grill, nor cooking without it.

This article is taken from issue 24. To buy the issue or subscribe, click here