New York Fashion Week 2018

Port‘s fashion director Dan May reflects on this year’s Spring Summer shows in New York

Set against London and Pitti Uomo in Florence, New York is often seen as the more commercial fashion week, reinterpreting trends and styles from across the pond into a more accessible format. Yet with menswear sales set to surpass those of womenswear in the next few years, it’s a fertile and exciting market for both experimental couture and mainstream 0ff-the-peg, and there was no shortage of innovation, new talent and fresh approaches on show on Long Island. Here, Port‘s fashion director selects his show highlights.


I loved what designer Neil Grotzinger sent down the runway (expertly styled by David Vandewal). His intricate couture-like detailing on fundamentally masculine inspired sportswear pieces were a particular highlight for me. You could sense the challenge he sends out through his work to the more regimented side of menswear.

Willy Chavarria

Chavarria gave us a modern take on the classic workwear uniform through his bold use of fabrics and silhouette. His years designing at Ralph Lauren have helped him hone a strong fashion sensibility and love for luxury that also comes through in the collection.

Feng Chen Wang

A previous LVMH prize nominee, Wang has also shown in London as part of the MAN show there, having graduated from the Royal College of Art in London. Her show offered up a variety of looks that ranged from minimalist to rather conceptual creations, which stem from Wang’s own life experiences, but I was drawn to the more simple, subdued outfits that had a sense of peace and calm that I loved.

Todd Snyder

The finale to the men’s shows in NY and rightly so. Todd just does great menswear and gets it right – it’s what men want to wear. Simple, elegant, great fabrics and colourways, and the perfect end to a great few days.

Head of State

I was very impressed with this collection from Nigeria-based designer Taofeek Abijako, who started the label at age 17 in 2016. There was a calm peacefulness to the collection that belied his youth. The colour palettes, cuts and silhouettes all seemed remarkably mature and worked well together. Definitely one to watch.


I just love what Emily Adams Bode does. It was the most refreshing and exciting show I saw in NY this season (and last season and the one before that!) There is something so strong and innocent and wonderfully unique about what she does, from the authentic fabrics she sources to the casting to the ideas. I’d like to live in a Bode world.

Illustrations Denis Sdobnov

Paris Fashion Week 2018

Port‘s fashion editor picks the best looks from the Paris Spring Summer 2019 shows

Paris was hot, the schedule cramped and the calibre of designers high. Conversion centred on the clash of titans: Kim Jones v Virgil Abloh – Jones, the fashion darling’s master craftsman, launched his debut at Dior, and Abloh, the self-made cult figure of streetwear, did the same at Louis Vuitton. Very good friends, both have the press, celebrity appeal, and the power to drive menswear in two very different directions – Kim pushing towards couture and Abloh humbling luxury fashion by including it in a wider cultural conversation. 

Dior – LOOK 35

The much anticipated debut collection from Kim Jones delivered in abundance; a breathtakingly chic parade of soft pinks, blues, tans and whites that took form in a diverse range of suiting, shorts, shirts and beautifully crafted coats and jackets. Models circled a towering cartoon-like floral sculpture created by Dior collaborator and New York street artist, KAWS. The giant ‘BFF’ companion mascot seemed triumphant as it heralded a new dawn for the elevation of both menswear and Dior Homme. Accomplishing his self-assigned mission to translate “feminine couture identity into a masculine idiom”, here Jones transcends the simple overcoat with a weightless transparency and florals sculpted from feathers. True luxury.

Hermès – LOOK 48

While remaining true to the brand’s luxury codes, Hermès’s long-standing designer Veronique Nichanian added subtle touches of streetwear and splashes of bold colour to bring the house up to date with modern trends for Spring Summer 19. Set in the historic Cloître des Cordeliers courtyard on breezy Saturday evening, with Hermes’ crisp white laundry hanging on lines overhead, models sauntered by nonchalantly, as if holidaying on the French Rivera. The fabrics remained luxury and the collection, on the whole, effortless, but the inclusion of season highlights such as the use of yellow and, in this look, the headline making ‘short’ short, proved the continued relevance of the brand.

Dunhill – LOOK 25

Continuing to shake things up in his second year at the creative helm of the British heritage brand, Mark Weston presented a collection that was elegant, fluid and subversive. The arched passageway of the Jacques-Decour private school was the perfect backdrop for this lesson in modern tailoring, with Weston questioning “notions of taste and aspiration, particularly those related to certain ideas of British clothing cultures” with looks designed to blur class boundaries – in this instance a sublime suit wore shirtless to increase its street credibility.

Loewe – LOOK 17

Jonathan Anderson wanted to tell ‘intimate stories of bohemian life’ through his SS19 collection of oversized knits, casual linens, and hippy-like, eccentric prints, which included the surprise motif of Disney favourite Dumbo. The presentation style was as laid-back as the collection: models rotated, clothes were hung so the tactile fabrics could be touched, and brightly coloured pom-poms covered the floor playfully. The collection was accompanied by images of the models casually placed in and around an empty Madrid mansion – painting, musing or relaxing, and continuing this idea of romanticised decadence. Ready-to-wear was of course accompanied by leather bags, the origin of the Loewe brand – in this look, a practical butter-soft brown rucksack that perfectly compliments a sun-bleached effect tie-dyed shirt and short combo.

Louis Vuitton – LOOK 37

The fashion industry waited with bated breath for Virgil Abloh’s debut at Louis Vuitton, eager to see how the streetwear giant would translate his urban style into a luxury product. As if symbolic of Abloh’s meteoric rise, the seemingly endless rainbow runway in the Jardin du Palais Royal gave a sense of optimism and change. A parade of all-white tailoring – neat jackets and shirts teamed with relaxed over-sized trousers – was followed by Abloh’s familiar territory of technical wear, harnesses, flashes of neon and bold colours, including this red look: sportswear-influenced in its silhouette yet elevated by styling and an elegant brown leather trench.

Illustration Jayma Sacco