A Time to Keep Silence

The iconic FENDI Baguette celebrates its 25th anniversary

FENDI X PORTER Baguette Mini

“It was a special day when I designed this bag,” notes Silvia Venturini Fendi, “the stars aligned. The horoscope said it was a FENDI day.” The artistic director of accessories and menswear is of course reminiscing about the now iconic Baguette. So called for its playful attitude and casual styling – intended to be worn under the arm like a freshly baked la tradition – the stellar bag has become synonymous with the Roman house.

FENDI X PORTER Baguette Mini

To celebrate its 25th anniversary year, collections from Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi, Marc Jacobs, Tiffany & Co, Sarah Jessica Parker and PORTER were recently showcased at New York Fashion Week, paying homage to the bag and NYC, the city in which its place in pop culture history was sealed (see: season 3, episode 13 of Sex and the City).

FENDI X PORTER Baguette Regular

Idiosyncratic interpretations of the bag sat within a special capsule collection for men and women. Jones and Fendi cleverly referenced its utility detailing through a multi-pocketed motif, complimented by hyper-luxe and gloss – silk satin, sequins and shaved mink. Jacobs and Tiffany & Co, meanwhile, captured the glitz of New York’s cityscape through rhinestones, enamel, white gold and diamonds. The latter’s showstopper was a Baguette made entirely of stippled sterling silver, painstakingly crafted by artisans over the course of four months and delicately engraved with the national flower of Italy and New York State, lilies and roses respectively.

A noteworthy addition was the release of a limited-edition book that married the bag with FENDI’s ‘hand in hand’ initiative – an ongoing project launched in 2020 dedicated to elevating Italian tradition and craft masters. The compact volume is illuminated by the work of 30 artisans from Italy’s twenty regions, selected by Fendi herself, and more than matches the design ambition that was on display in New York. A litany of unusual bags and materials requiring centuries-old techniques have been beautifully photographed by artist Lorenzo Vitturi, including everything from coral to gold chiseled marble, mosaic tesserae to peacock feathers. Commenting on the book, Fendi reflects that, “It pleases me to work on certain techniques that, to me, seem unchanged – and then to observe how when working by hand an error can become a virtue. Indeed, an error can become the idea for innovation. This, I believe, is couture today.”    

FENDI X PORTER Baguette Mini

For issue 31, Port travelled to the beaches of Normandy to shoot the PORTER collaboration, a sleek, masculine take on the cult object. First working with the revered Japanese luggage and accessories brand back in 2019 for its Men’s AW 2019-20 collection, the renewed partnership with FENDI is an exercise in utilitarianism, executed in the brand’s hardy signature material of bonded dense nylon, which deftly repels dirt and water.

FENDI X PORTER Baguette Mini

A varied colour-way of steel grey, black, rose pink, navy, verdant green and post box red plays out across its three forms that can be styled in a myriad number of ways – cross-body, hand-carried or as a belt – the Mini, Regular, or one of the bags latest incarnations: the Bum Baguette. Depending on your appetite, plenty to choose from.

fendi.com

All bags from the FENDI Baguette 25th anniversary collection

Photography Hugo Mapelli

This article is taken from Port issue 31. To continue reading, buy the issue or subscribe here

Vantage Point

Fendi’s SS22 collection finds new perspectives in familiar points of view

ALL CLOTHING FENDI SS22 MEN’S COLLECTION THROUGHOUT

Silvia Venturini Fendi is among the few who can say they truly know Rome’s Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana – or, to use its snappier, colloquial name, the Square Colosseum. Built at the end of the Facist era, this six-storey tower with its facade of never-ending arches remained largely uninhabited for decades, until Fendi took up residence in 2015. Now, the designer’s office sits atop the hulk of travertine marble; from her desk, she enjoys a panorama of the city’s seven hills, their contours ever-changing as the sun moves from east to west.
It’s this alchemy of light, land and architecture that runs through Fendi’s spring/summer collection. “How you see things – and from where you see them – has never been more important,” says the designer. “Our singular point of view in this period has modified our perception of the world, and mine has become so linked to what I see from the arches and rooftop of our building.”

There’s a dreamlike quality about the clothes. A palette of soft pastels – lime, lavender, pistachio – evokes the morning sky with bolts of punchy graphite, slate and indigo for the twilight hours, all rendered in fluid shirting, diaphanous outerwear and slouchy linen-silk suiting. Two graphic motifs punctuate the mostly-monochromatic styling, representing Fendi’s unique and towering vantage point over Rome. One spins the city’s natural contours across tactile crochet and knitted shearling, the other recreates an archival illustrated street map to witty effect. Of course, there are trainers – knitted, in more pastels, along with bucket hats and, amusingly, ping-pong racket bags (Fendi spoke last season of having had “enough” of streetwear, but is a savvy pragmatist).

For a collection whose origins lie in an enforced stillness, there is a thrilling current of adventure. Tailoring plays with proportions and perceptions: daringly cropped jackets come to an abrupt end at the midriff, others are split with a sheer organza bottom half. Shorts are extra short and loaded with cargo pockets, trousers often with a dandy-ish split hem. He’s a free spirit, this Fendi man, an ethereal maverick – but one who still nods towards a classic Italian sensibility, be it in the gentle cut of his overcoat or his smart nylon messenger. Alluring and modern, he’s unafraid of the feminine. He embraces it, in fact, slinging a crossbody over his shoulder or a playful, shrunken Baguette bag on a chain around his waist, as he wanders the piazzas in his buckled sandals, daydreaming about what tomorrow will bring.

fendi.com

Photography Jack Johnstone 

Styling Grace Joel 

Set design Imogen Frost

Grooming Laila Zakaria

Model Liren Shih at Chapter Management

Casting George Raymond Stead 

Photography assistant Aaron Crossman 

This article is taken from Port issue 30. To continue reading, buy the issue or subscribe here

Graphic Novel

Port shoots FENDI’s latest collection in Brazil for Issue 26

It’s as if they’ve been extracted from a Lichtenstein print or graphic novel. For Issue 26, Port travelled to Rio de Janeiro to shoot an exclusive fashion story with FENDI’s California Sky Collection. With creative direction and styling by Dan May and photography by John Balsom, bold lines are complimented by Brazilian beaches. 

FENDI’s latest collection sees the fashion house work once more with the Guatemalan-American graphic artist Joshua Vides, who transformed Harrods FENDI CAFFE and Peekaboo Bar last year with his signature monochromatic line work.

Vides’ cartoon-like style has now been applied to a huge range of women’s, men’s and accessories pieces for the Prefall 2020 collection – nylon windbreakers, embossed cycling shorts, featherweight fur coats, perforated leather jackets – his black and white 3D effect broken up with the occasional Roman sky blue and wisteria violet fade. A floral allover motif can also be found throughout, alongside a reworking of the FENDI Stamps and the infamous FF logo. The striking tromp l’oeil effect is a particularly bold twist for the men’s cotton jackets, satin blousons and accessories, including the iconic Baguette bag. 

You can discover the collection from July 1st at the California Sky Pop-Up, Harrods Men’s Piazza. 

fendi.com

Model Matheus Pereira

Casting Thaís Mendes at Squad Brazil

Grooming Diego Américo, @diegoamerico

Production Two Palms, @twopalmsproductions

Special thanks to @HotelArpoador