Field Day 2021

On the last weekend of August, London’s Victoria Park welcomed the return of Field Day in a quintessentially electronic homecoming

The day began as we bounced our way onto the overground, only to be met by a swarm of festival goers; the influx of glittery faces, patterned shirts, make-shift drinks and bumbags gave them away instantly. We walked from Whitechapel, many others did the same, and the weather was typically British – muggy and grey. But despite the somewhat bleak skies that casted over the city, there was a real sense of anticipation sweeping the air. Field Day, London’s annual outdoor music festival that originated in 2007, had returned. And with it came a sell-out event and line-up comprising a mix of electronic genres and six arenas, not to mention a thrillingly moody headline performance from production duo BICEP at the main stage – the first performance since 2018.

After a year of cancellations, the elation for the UK’s return to festivals was unmissable. As we edged closer to the gates, the bassy hum of the stage openers exaggerated this: IMOGEN, Jaguar, Flip the Lid, Sofia Kourtesis, Grainger and Yung Singh were all kicking off what would be a blissful homecoming to the original playground of Victoria Park. Other bookings included O’Flynn, Hot Chip Megamix, Artwork, Mall Grab, Rosie Low, Floating Points, TSHA and Poté to name a few, and it’s safe to say that those in attendance were more than enthusiastic. 

“It’s been different,” said the festival’s director, Luke Huxham, as I sat down with him to ask about the expected and enduring hurdles. “It’s been challenging trying to navigate through the rescheduling and reacting to the government messaging. But, I think festivals in general are challenging, so it’s just been another challenge we’ve had to deal with. However, things are back and they’re back for good. It’s exciting.”

With the previous event held in south London’s Brockwell Park, Luke explained that it was a thrilling return to the festival’s birthplace in east London. “This is where we’re going to stay for a while,” he said. Coupled with a quick reaction to the news of the pandemic, the team were able to roll over the line-up from 2019, which inadvertently worked in their favour. “In a way, the delay has been a good thing because BICEP’s profile is now much bigger than it was or would have been for last year’s event,” said Luke. “So we’ve got one of the hottest headlines at the peak of their career.”

Photo credit: Ro Murphy / Hotchip

Poté, a Paris-based artist who also goes by the name Sylvern Mathurin, took to The North Stage in the early evening for his DJ set. A little different to his live performances, the set was still brimming with energy. The return to festivals, he said, had been rejuvenating: “It gave me a lot of time to re-think what I want to stand for and how I want to portray myself in the future.” Having just finished working on an album, he explained how his experiences over the pandemic have been self-defining; he’s thought a lot about who he is. “For the first time, I’ve got into therapy and started diving into who I am. Especially with all that was going around – Black Lives Matter and Me Too – it made me question who I am and what I stand for. I never had that existential moment before.” 

This was Poté’s second UK festival of the year so far, with Lost Village being the first a couple of days prior. For him, like many of the artists performing that day, the come-back was exhilarating. “As soon as you go up on the stage and get that roar of energy, there’s nothing else to do but give it back, releasing it and dancing.”

TSHA

TSHA is a London-based DJ producer who was one of the early performers at the Victoria Park East stage. Catching her after the set, there’s no denying that she set the mood for what was to come later on. “It’s difficult to play early but it’s always nice,” she said. “Not everyone gets here at this time or people aren’t drunk enough yet, or ready enough. But it’s been a good vibe – I think everyone’s been pretty on it with a lot of the festivals, which is wicked.”

Field Day was TSHA’s second festival of the weekend, so it’s been a busy return for the DJ. “It’s been really energising but at the same time exhausting,” TSHA added. She’s just dropped an EP and has been utilising the past year or so to write. But as things opened up again, her focus then shifted to performing. “You’re there meeting people and finally seeing friends you haven’t seen in a long time, finally being able to be together and dance together, catching other performers I haven’t seen in a long time; it’s a hole that’s been missing and it’s been filled now.”

Photo Credit: Karolina Wielocha / Mall Grab
Photo Credit: Ro Murphy / Bicep
Floating Points
Jaguar
Photo credit: Karolina Wielocha
DJ Seinfeld and George FitzGerald

Perpetual Concerts

Rolex’s new concert programme supports musicians affected by COVID-19 

Renaud Capuçon, © Jean-François Leclercq

There are few areas of life that COVID-19 hasn’t altered with its insidious, debilitating reach. As we explored back in May, the viruses’ impact on the music industry and creative’s livelihoods has the potential to be catastrophic if there is inadequate support, even beyond the £1.57 billion arts emergency fund announced by the UK government. The private sector has its role to play, which is why why Rolex’s newly launched initiative to support musicians and singers during this critical period is welcome news. Having started last week and running through to early September, the programme will see three “Perpetual Music” concerts take place in Italy (Teatro Rossini, 21st August), Germany (Berlin Staatsoper, 1st September) and France (Opéra national de Paris, 3rd September).    

Before each concert, three brand ‘testimonees’ – including Juan Diego Flórez (philanthropic Peruvian tenor), Sonya Yoncheva (renowned Bulgarian-Swiss operatic soprano) and Rolando Villazón (lyric tenor and Artistic Director of the Mozartwoche Salzburg) – will perform the repertoire prepared with singers and musicians, with Renaud Capuçon (renowned French violinist) supporting the French show. Concerts will involve over 100 artists whose work has been adversely affected by the pandemic, and streamed live on medici.tv, reaching thousands worldwide. 

Sonya Yoncheva, © Rolex Hugo Glendinning

“During these difficult times, when musicians have suffered both the loss of audience and income, our aim is to provide them the opportunity to perform with renowned artists at prestigious venues with the finest acoustics,” notes Arnaud Boetsch, Rolex director of communication & image. “Significantly, this gift of time and exposure is in keeping with the company’s pursuit of excellence and its long-term commitment to foster the work of those who aim to reach the pinnacle of their profession….within the context of these unprecedented circumstances, this project is also a way for us to help keep music as an essential element in our daily lives.”

Concerts will remain available on medici.tv until the end of October 2020

Baloji

The Belgian composer, director and writer in perpetual motion discusses his career – past, present and future – with Aimee Cliff

Baloji often finds that other people don’t know quite how to define him. As a musician, director, stylist and visual artist moving fluidly between genres, forms and languages, his refusal to be put in a box is exactly what makes him so appealing. Speaking over the phone from his home in Belgium, he reflects on the questions he frequently gets asked: “’Are you a rap artist?’ ‘Are you African music? Electronic music? Poetry?’” He chuckles warmly. “I’m like everybody else. Sometimes I want to listen to grime. Sometimes I want to listen to something instrumental. . . Like everybody, I have different moods. But in music, you have to be one specific thing. That’s the way this industry works. People tell me all the time: ‘You’re not focused; you don’t know who you are.’ It’s a difficult thing for them to deal with, apparently.”

Currently, the multihyphenate artist is spend- ing most of his time writing, while he is under lockdown due to COVID-19. Having been in Italy a few weeks previously, he’s seen the early stages of the pandemic unfolding from different vantage points around Europe. It strikes him how little countries are learning from one another, even in a crisis. “We need to not only talk about our own little islands, our own countries,” he says. “It’s very important, it would help the whole world.”

Baloji wears Dior Summer20 men’s collection throughout

It’s a point of view that comes naturally for someone whose identity has been shaped by multiple continents and cultures. Born in the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) in 1978, Baloji was taken to Belgium to live with his step-family when he was three years old. Four years later, his father, having lost all his assets because of war, disappeared from Baloji’s life. At 14, Baloji dropped out of school and found his way into a hip-hop group named Starflam, which he performed with as MC Balo. But it was at the age of 26, after rebuilding connections with his mother and with his native Congo, that he began develop- ing his solo career with Hotel Impala, a personal, strident record of funk-fuelled rap.

His career since then has been a multifaceted, ever-evolving one. His albums – including the sweeping, psychedelic 2018 LP 137 Avenue Kaniama – have established him as a star in France and Belgium, and gradually crossed over to English-speaking audiences. Right now, Baloji believes the west is more open to hearing from African artists than they have been in the past. “It’s changing for the good, ’specially with afrobeat, just because the diaspora is so reactive,” he says. “But it’s also a trend – we have to be careful with trends, that it’s really changing the way people perceive African music.” One thing he’s definitely happy about, though, is “that we finally killed the idea of ‘world music’ – which is just a box where we put all the music that is not European”.

He’s also finding that, thanks to improved Internet access, his own music is finding more fans in the DRC than ever before. “Four years ago, the access to data and 4G in the Congo was so limited, the decision makers were all the same,” says Baloji. “Now my work has the help of the Internet, it’s really made a difference. I don’t depend on 10 people, who say, ‘It’s not for us, it’s too European.’” At the time of speaking, he was in fact supposed to be on a tour of East Africa (now rescheduled due to the pandemic), playing shows and screening films.

For Baloji, shows and screenings go hand in hand. His work as a musician has always been supplemented by cinematic experiences, like his stunning, surrealist 2019 short film Zombies, a commentary on smartphone addiction. Throughout his career, Baloji explains, he has self-funded his short films, because he’s passionate about realising his vision even when his label don’t have the budget: “When I conceive the music, I always think about the visuals, how to make a narrative structure around it, the scenes and the sequence.”

But his work as a director hasn’t always been taken seriously. “People don’t believe that as an artist, you can also be a director. It’s something that they don’t really accept, and it’s very hard to deal with that. You know, when you see a video, and it’s directed by Madonna, everybody’s like, ‘She didn’t direct it, she just put her name on it.’ So when [I direct something], they’re like, ‘Yeah, right. There must be a white guy behind you doing all the work.’”

In recent years, though, Baloji has seen this attitude shifting – in part because of the amount of time he’s spent grafting, both in front of the camera and behind it, and in part because of accolades he’s won, including Best Styling, for Zombies, at the UK Music Video Awards in 2019. “This really helped,” he says of his UKMVA. “People could finally accept: ‘He’s the director, and the musician, and he’s also the stylist.’”

Thanks to this boost, Baloji is now working on a dream project of his: the feature-length film Augure, a magical-realist depiction of an uber-patriachal society, for which he has finally secured funding after receiving six rejections. “It’s narratively…weird for traditional funding,” he laughs. “This industry is very strange. Everybody wants ‘something different’, but then nobody’s there to pay for something different, because they’re scared that nobody goes to the theatre to watch this type of movie. So that made it difficult.”

Speaking with a breezy frankness, it’s clear that Baloji is now the most relaxed he has been throughout his career – not because he has won the approval of gatekeepers, but because he has liberated himself from caring about what they think. “Ten years ago, I was scared of everything,” he reflects. “Scared of what people would say; scared of people not showing up [to shows].” In the past, he says, he would get down about the little things, like radio playlisting; but now he takes sheer joy from the crowds he sees coming back to his shows again and again, and is excited to create for the sake of creating. It’s in that spirit that he’s returning to the studio to work on a new album, which will also be the soundtrack to his film Augure. He describes it as perhaps the most fun he’s ever had writing music, because he’s pushing himself to write from the perspective of his female characters. No longer dogged by the worries he had earlier in his career, he now sees his experience and maturity as a gift. “The way this industry works, they make sure an artist survives for four or five years, and after five years, it’s game over,” he says. “Because we always need ‘something new’. But if you’re really an artist, you can be refreshing and different, not just because you’re new. All my favourite artists, directors, painters – they all reinvent themselves. You just have to challenge yourself.”

Photography Mous Lamrabat 

Styling Dan May 

Grooming Gwen De Vylder

Photography assistant Tim Coppens

This article is taken from issue 26. To buy the issue or subscribe, click here

Art & the Artist

When one crosses into immorality, can you separate the two?

Our society is going through vast changes in how we process immorality. This won’t be the first or last time this question comes up, but what happens when we love the cultural contribution of an individual and they turn out to be a bad person? How do we process this as a society and why can it be problematic? What are the power structures in play behind this that we can attempt to deconstruct to move forwards?

Let us look at people in powerful positions that have caused controversy recently, famous artists and producers such as Michael Jackson, Harvey Weinstein and R. Kelly. Their allegations range over a vast period of time, from paedophilia to rape, in an abuse of their position at the top.

This isn’t an infrequent topic of discussion. Cultural upheaval on this scale is so shocking because it is omnipresent and infiltrates all aspects of our lives. There is a widespread awareness of the issue, but a widespread apathy in understanding how to approach it. I’ve had suggestions from friends ranging from ignorance, to not engaging or dancing when a song comes on, to enjoying the music but offsetting the moral issues by donating to a charity – everybody is trying to cope in a way that fits their own moral compass. Personally, I don’t think that once I am aware of an issue that I should still support that figure, but support can come in many ways.

We have a fundamental problem in our society where we will readily exchange morality for cultural capital. Celebrity culture can push people to a point of ultimate power that they become untouchable. From their place of influence, society is afraid to face or challenge behaviour in depth. When members of the audience at an R. Kelly concert were being interviewed about the criminal accusations he was facing, one man answered, “Well, Michael Jackson did it…” It’s only once that power – over society – begins to fade, that people begin to talk.

Jackson’s contribution to society as a musician is undeniable and overwhelming. He was the king of pop, and the evidence of him molesting underage children is comprehensive. People intentionally overlook this, and it’s important to not forget. If it was anybody else facing this evidence, there would have surely been a much wider public defamation, but his hold over culture is so total and complete that even now people choose to ignore this. He had a support system in place that would be incredulous in allowing him to sleep and groom young children. Now we face a difficult situation because he is also dead, and unable to face the storm that he has left in his wake. However, now that he is gone and his grip is loosening, people are beginning to ask questions. It’s only with the recent Leaving Neverland documentary that some traction has been gained. 

It is impossible to forget this man existed. Not just from a historical perspective, you can see the impact he has had on our music artists even today. I can’t deny that I love his music and grew up with him. Even after watching the documentary and feeling disgust, I found myself singing Beat It as I was making myself a coffee. He was an incredible musician, but we must remember that he was morally corrupt and abused his position of power to fulfil his fantasies – even his family have not denied this. It is important we don’t forget, because if we did, it’s possible that the negatives would fade, and history would remember him with a rose-tint rather than a zoom-lens. We must not forget him so that we can learn and change things for the future.

A question that arrives here, is that does the act of enjoying their art reinforce the individual’s place in society, reinforce their ability to create, and take the focus away from their morality? In some senses, the answer is yes to all of these. Cancel culture started to take hold when Spotify introduced the option for a mute button in early 2019. The feature was only rolled out on the mobile app, and is yet to hit desktop and web versions of the streaming service. The feature was controversial and hit with a lot of negativity, even though they were trying to make a statement and positive move forwards. In some ways, people are unsure of how to proceed, but sometimes they just want to look the other way.

Here we hit a serious problem in the fact that people are willing to look the other way and exchange cultural capital for a serious moral issue. Once an individual has behaved in this way, it recontextualises everything about them and their work, it should be impossible to look past. What we are really grieving here is ourselves. We grieve our ability to look the other way, to hold ourselves accountable for society’s issues and question them. We need to remind ourselves to look underneath, and to remove the possibility for this to keep happening.

Accountability is returning to the collective conscience – the #metoo movement which rose across the USA in a maelstrom of controversy has resulted in its first major conviction with Harvey Weinstein. The most important thing to try and address here is the balance of power between idol and society, to create safe spaces for people to talk out and address the issues. Weinstein marks an important step in this, because it means that people who are in an inevitably similar position to him are no longer untouchable.

 

Despite this, the #metoo movement has also been targeted as political correctness gone mad, over the top and “aggressive feminism”. Some argue that trial by media and the wider public can be toxic and unrelenting, so why not leave this to the criminal justice system? Well, the criminal justice system remains skewed against the victim. We need this intense movement from the public to make people realise how serious the issue is. Remember the rape case on an American college campus in 2015, where the rapist was a student and a strong swimmer in the university team? Even with this comparatively small amount of power that he held, the defendant argued the rape case could ruin his swimming career. On this much smaller scale, the potential cultural capital still overshadowed the moral issue.

The movement needs to happen across society, and outside of the judicial system. There is a pattern here, not just with the power plays, but with men at the top abusing them. The issue is that the conversation has always been started by the victims, and not by all the people that it doesn’t affect. I don’t think that Weinstein woke every day realising “I’m sexually abusive”, it’s a product of his behaviour, but did he ever think he was doing wrong? The conversation needs to be had with everyone, especially those who think it doesn’t concern them.

So what can we do? Could Spotify and streaming services put safeguards in place around artists? Could an abuse of power become an abuse of law? Ultimately stopping listening to Michael Jackson isn’t going to make the world a better place – what really needs to be addressed is the toxic culture which enables us to support these figures from a position of fear. Fear of power, fear of abuse and fear of our own morality.

Are we now looking at the breaking down of these power structures? We’ve definitely seen a paradigm shift recently, but alongside changing attitudes we need legislation and protection. Sometimes I feel weak, or afraid to look at hate directly in the face. But we need to speak about that, to try and understand, and try to overcome it. That’s how change will be instigated. Challenge what you can, when you can. The movement towards accountability and transparency is just beginning – we cannot be bystanders any longer.  

Soundtrack: Jaga Jazzist

Lars Horntveth from Jaga Jazzist shares his musical influences past and present

Growing up, I would listen to Norwegian jazz, late 80s hip hop (Public Enemy, NWA, De La Soul), Bruce Springsteen and a-ha. Probably a weird little list, but actually makes a lot of sense for me looking back. All of these artists made music or were influenced by other music that has strongly inspired me later on. Being able to take in all kinds of styles and appreciate it for the good elements in it has been really key to Jaga’s musical evolution over the years. Melodically, I still write music that is strongly influenced by the Norwegian jazz scene of the 70s and 80s especially. I also think that growing up listening to hip hop and sample-based music made us feel like it was natural to make electronic music from a very early age. I’m a sucker for really catchy pop and rock music too, so Bruce and a-ha fits in perfectly somehow. 

An album that really changed how I felt about music is Point by Cornelius. His production, songs and ideas felt so fresh when it came out. Listening to it now, it feels like he inspired everyone else in the next 20 years after its release. It altered the way I thought about working in the studio and has been so inspiring later on when I started producing albums myself. 

Two artists have greatly shaped me, a combination of Radiohead and Motorpsycho. Two bands that I always have been a huge fan of, but that are very different from each other. They have one thing in common though – it is always a surprise listening to their latest album. That’s always been extremely inspiring to me, taking chances and not repeating a formula that worked the last time. You could say the same thing about Miles or Bowie or David Byrne, but those two bands were really big for me when I was in my teens. A lot of the music I’ve written is inspired by those two bands and I’ve tried to cover it up as good as possible, but listening back to Jaga stuff, I can definitely hear snippets here and there.

Contemporary wise, I recently started listening to Punch Brothers. They’re amazing, and I realise that I’m very late in discovering them! The intricacy of the arrangements and just how this old format of bluegrass instrumentation can sound so modern and fresh is mind-blowing. I also listen to a lot of electronic music, Lindstrøm and Jon Hopkins and the new Four Tet album is great! Plus, I love the new Childish Gambino album and also Hildur Gudnadottir´s soundtrack to Joker. So good. And last, but not least: Elephant 9, a Norwegian proggy organ trio. All their stuff is great, but their last box set of live recordings are next level. 

Jaga Jazzist‘s latest album “Pyramid” is released 14th August 2020 on Brainfeeder

The Art of Celebration: Dom Pérignon x Lenny Kravitz

Port meets rock musician Lenny Kravitz to learn more about his photography, parties and friendship with the Chef de Cave of Dom Pérignon

When Lenny Kravitz first met Richard Geoffroy ten years ago, he immediately sensed that he was in the presence of a fellow artist. As an infamous rock star and Chef de Cave of Dom Pérignon respectively, the match was by no means obvious, but when pressed on the matter a grinning Kravitz gestures at his open shirt and flared jeans and deadpans, “what, you don’t think we’re alike? I borrowed this outfit from Richard.” Unshakably smooth, his manner becomes discernibly enthused when he proudly relates, “we’re both very disciplined, we both have so many ideas about things, we both enjoy the creative process… we just realised we were more alike than different.”

Deeply respectful of Geoffroy’s work, which he describes as “a whole science”, Kravitz sees his new role as creative director as an opportunity to invoke how the Dom Pérignon experience matches that expertise. A classic champagne, for him the brand is most associated with something “you’re going to remember… it marks a time, an event, an occasion”. It is with that vision in mind that Kravitz produced Assemblage, a series of photographs in which he captures the fun and fleeting sophistication of such moments with an intimate gathering of friends at Stanley House in Hollywood Hills, a product of Kravitz Design.

Kravitz’s delightfully blasé descriptions of the evening, which, like many others, began with cooking in the kitchen, became a dinner party and ended up at the nightclub downstairs, belie the eminence of his guests. “We just started to hang out and talk – my daughter was the catalyst… It was just this eclectic group of artists hanging out and getting to know each other.” The group of artists in question included daughter Zoë Kravitz, Susan Sarandon, Alexander Wang and Harvey Keitel, among others, and they do indeed seem to revel in each others company more and more as the night wears on. 

Kravitz was “very much inspired by this book of Studio 54 photographs by Ron Galella,” an early paparazzo known for his shots of New York’s nightlife, so staged the series “inside, in the dark, with the flash”. Producing Assemblage has allowed Kravitz to develop a lifelong curiosity for photography that was sparked when his journalist father presented him with an old Leica camera on his 21st birthday. 

His music would soon place him inside a frenzied arena of pointed lenses but he remained more interested in “what was going on behind the camera”. On visits to the studios of Mark Seliger and Jean Baptiste Mondino he picked up a few techniques, but ultimately Kravitz learnt how to use a camera like any other of his instruments, “getting it, putting it in my hands and figuring it out”. 

The collection was launched at New York’s Skylight Modern on Friday evening, with limitless 2009 vintage champagne and a captivated crowd of models, actors, journalists and artists drawn from across the city and globe. No buzz was greater, however, than that for the arrival of Assemblage’s stars, who were paraded around the room behind a thicket of mics and flashing phones. 

Still, there seemed little left to add to the story already being told along the gallery walls. Shot in black and white, the images are a glimpse at rare, unguarded moments and include charmingly candid stills from scenes steeped in joie de vivre. It’s an energy that seems to follow Kravitz wherever he goes and fully infuses his collaboration with Dom Pérignon, which sees a limited-edition bottle released next year. “Even if its a legendary brand… we’re all having a great time, and thats what makes it work for me.” 

‘Assemblage’ is exhibited at Skylight Modern in New York until 6 October. It will then travel to London, Milan, Tokyo, Hong Kong and Berlin. 

domperignon.com

Super Sharp

Helena Fletcher explores an exhibition celebrating the styles of the jungle and UK garage scenes, and the first instalment of RTRN II JUNGLE

Archivist and curator Tory Turk and DJ, producer and one half of Chase & Status, Saul Milton, first crossed paths in 2014 when Turk was curating 89:14 – A Street Style Journey. For the street style exhibition, Turk enlisted Milton in styling a jungle mannequin for the display, as she recalls of time: “It was then that Saul told me about his impressive Moschino collection and that he was interested in putting together an exhibition incorporating it.” Four years on, a selection of pieces from Milton’s collection form the centrepieces of exhibition Super Sharp on display at London College of Fashion’s Fashion Space Gallery, delving deep into the subcultural styles of the jungle and UK garage music scenes.

Jungle and garage fashion definitely wasn’t for the shy or faint hearted – the clothes were bold, brash and bright, and worn with a large helping of bravado. With raves no longer taking place outdoors or in crusty warehouses, the club venues germinated a new uniform. Still holding on to the colourful look that first defined rave culture, the style became a more dressed-up amalgamation of urban combat gear, coupled with fantastically flashy designer fashion.

In no way understated and completely at odds with the Berghain-ian black that has swept the London underground scene for the last few years, logo-heavy Italian luxury designer labels like Versace, Iceberg, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana ran rife across the dance floors. Moschino printed jeans, jackets and shirts (often all worn together) became synonymous with the look of the epoch, and were known as ‘off-key Mosch’, ‘pattern Mosch’ or ‘crazy Mosh’; depending on where you were in London.

“In the jungle scene peacocking and showing your worth by the designer label on your back went hand-in-hand with the time,” says Milton. “Designer labels certainly weren’t the norm for youth to wear so having Moschino and Versace for all to see was a big statement. The loud, garish colours and patterns were also very much in sync with the music and the vibe that was happening at the time.”

What started with the jungle scene became even more exaggerated and famous with garage. The use of soulful house and R&B vocals in the tracks attracted a more female audience, which changed attitudes within the club. Door policies and dress codes tightened and dancing became sexier. It was all about flaunting affluence – the drink of choice was either brandy or champagne (a Moët & Chandon official once paying a visit to Twice as Nice due to the suspiciously high champagne consumption). Looks would be accessorised with a fresh pairs of Gucci loafers or Patrick Cox Wannabes, and clubbers would leave the cardboard swing tags on their clothes to show that they hadn’t been worn before.

Milton’s own obsession with Moschino, which now fills a room in his home, started in 1998 when his grandfather bought him his first Moschino shirt: “That was what really began my love for Moschino and wearing clothes of that ilk,” he remembers. “When I was younger, I used to go to jungle raves; everyone would be head-to–toe in Moschino, Versace, D&G, Gucci loafers and the rest. That is when I guess, in my life, I was most inspired and when I had the dream of being a DJ, to make tunes and be part of the scene – that stayed with me for many years.”

Whilst working on the third Chase & Status album in 2012, Milton became eager to reignite his passion for making music again. “I really wanted to get inspired, and I thought when was I most inspired? When I was young, seventeen/eighteen years old, going out wearing head-to-toe Moschino,” he continues: “I really wanted to re-discover that passion again, so I rummaged through my wardrobe, found some of my old pieces and went on the hunt looking for other old pieces, just to recreate what I had.” From then on his collection grew: “The next thing you know, I’ve got 1,500 pieces of vintage Moschino. And now I dress and look exactly the same as I did when I was eighteen; I am inspired and still making jungle.”

Super Sharp is just the tip of the iceberg and Milton’s extensive archive of both men’s and womenswear forms the core of RTRN II JUNGLE, a series celebrating 15 years of Chase & Status with an array of events and exhibitions focused on exploring the music and fashion that made 1990s British rave culture, and culminating in DJ tours and new musical releases. “The next exhibition will house my entire 1500 piece vintage Moschino collection and will delve much deeper into the story we began with Super Sharp,” he enthuses.

Alongside Milton’s archive pieces, magazine spreads from Dazed, i-D and The Face, documenting the fashion and culture, pepper the display. Magazines would often turn up to club nights just to photograph the style of the people waiting in the queues to get in. “Magazines such as i-D did catch on to the posy nature of the jungle and garage scenes,” Turk explains. And the style is captured in a selection of never before exhibited photographs taken at jungle raves such as Helter Skelter, Roast and One Nation by Tristan O’Neill, who shot for underground dance magazines such as Eternity, Dream and Atmosphere. “It was amazing to unearth imagery that features jungle ravers wearing the designer label style that was made famous by the media representation of garage,” says Turk.

It is almost impossible to ignore the wave of nineties nostalgia that is currently sweeping the internet, and with it comes a revival of countless aspects of pre-millennial culture, including renewed interest in jungle and UK garage sounds and style. “Today, there is a special nostalgia for these pre-social media pockets of history, and millennials have been referencing the style for quite a few years now,” notes Turk. While on the internet the lines between the two genres are often blurred or confused by hindsight, Super Sharp aims to document and examine the nuances of the two styles not only through the fashion and printed media but through the recollections of those who experience the scenes first hand. The clothes are contextualised by quotes, testimonies and memories of key jungle and garage musicians, journalists, academics and enthusiasts including Goldie, PJ & Smiley (Shut Up & Dance), MC Nyke and Fabio & Grooverider.

Two decades on, why is the style and sounds of jungle and garage making a comeback both in the clubs and on the catwalk? “I think we’re in a very similar climate to the 90s – uncertainty, unrest and a feeling that a change is in the air. In these times people always turn to music and fashion and that’s usually when the most ground breaking and forward thinking music is made,” offers Milton. “The kids today look back at the 90s and want to experience ‘it’ themselves and they put their own twist on it; they see the style and they make it their own. Everything’s come back around.”

Super Sharp is on at the Fashion Space Gallery, London until 21 April.

Excessive, Explosive Enjoyment

Drugs are synonymous with countercultural movements but how have they influenced creativity, and do they still have a place in our artistic landscape today?

Illustration by Tim McDonagh

When we were teenagers in the late 1960s, drugs were new. Not only for us, but for our parents and for the culture. We suburban kids knew that something strange had been going on in London because even the world’s most popular group, the Beatles – who had been respectable and decent but had now got weird with their colourful clothes and unusual hair – had talked about it. The music they made in their great middle period was concerned with tripping and smoking and swallowing stuff that appeared to take your mind into a free, uncontrolled zone where the usual rules didn’t apply, where you might see that which was ordinarily hidden.

This music was about freedom and leaving home and, particularly at that age, freedom meant a lot to us. The boredom and violence of school, and the drudgery which had been planted ahead of us – work, mortgage, debt, childcare – was already heavy. Our future and what was expected of us had been laid down early. It wasn’t thrilling and we weren’t ready for it.

The London suburbs were not as affluent as the American ones. Our area was still wrecked from the war. The food was repulsive; the men wore bowler hats and education was an endless sadism. But The Graduate spoke to us pretty things. As Benjamin Braddock realises in Charles Webb’s lovely novel and Mike Nichols’ film, when he returns home from university his parents’ world looks false. From the kids’ point of view, the way the adults lived seemed crazy. Who would want to fit in with that uncomfortable, John Cheever-like world where everyone should be content and yet was not? Their unhappiness and discomfort was plain, and their pleasures – of alcohol and promiscuity – were half-hidden and guilty.

We were the wrong people in the wrong place. Some people said that art could change the way you saw things. But somnolent Mozart, or Hollywood movies, or Renoir paintings couldn’t make the revolution we craved. Then we heard Little Richard and Chuck Berry. Occasionally we could see the Rolling Stones or the Who on TV. Suddenly we became aware of a dirty obscene noise which violated all decency and which represented a heightened pleasure we hadn’t encountered before. It led to the fatal association: pleasure was insane. Too much of it could make you mad. Like sex, it was excessive. You couldn’t grasp or understand it, but you wanted it, and it could make you dance and want to be creative. Music – not the cinema, television, or the novel – was the most significant cultural form of the day and it changed everything for everyone.

It was sometimes said the country was awash with drugs, but try scoring when you needed something. In the late ’60s mostly we smoked hash, took amphetamines and downers, and dropped LSD, often at school. Baudelaire in his writing on drugs notices an encounter with what he calls ‘the marvellous’, but also with an increase in anxiety and paranoia when taking hashish. He also tells us that one is no longer master of oneself. You lost control. This might be an inspiration in itself. You could see and feel things stoned that you couldn’t know straight. There might be enhanced communication. If you were less cautious and uptight, you might be able to speak and laugh more. If you lost your straight self, you might discover a better one. You might want to live differently. That became the promise.

The fact that drugs were illegal and disapproved of made them doubly exciting. Breaking the parents’ law, or indeed any law, was a big kick in itself: you could believe that by arguing with prohibition you were making the world a little wider.

Writers like Baudelaire, de Nerval, Huxley and, later, Tom Wolfe and Hunter Thompson, wrote about drug-taking among the artistic elite. Now, for the first time, drugs were generally available and, like pop, they had even reached the suburbs. And the drugs we began to take in one another’s bedrooms, in the parks and later in the pubs, represented instant pleasure, while everything in the suburbs was deferred. Consumerism was about patience, waiting, slow accumulation and gradual improvement. Capitalism no longer starved the workers, but it starved them of pleasure. We were supposed to work, not make love. We were made aware that happiness, if not pleasure, was always elsewhere.

The West had been growing out of God. Religion was going but hadn’t quite gone, and was yet to be entirely replaced by consumerism. The threat of God’s disapproval was still used as a form of control. Yet as we drifted around in our tie-dyed grandad vests and ripped jeans, hiding from mods and skinheads, we knew that the game of traditional authority was up and that the law we were brought up to respect wasn’t sensible. Drugs were prohibited but worse things were allowed, if not encouraged: genocide, war, racism, inequality, violence. No one would kill their own children, but they were keen to kill other people’s. We didn’t believe the grown-ups, who were not grown-ups after all. The levelling of generations had begun.

Not only that, as the 1970s progressed, capitalism – which required everyone to be anxious and hyper-alert – began to falter. The system was more anarchic, bumpy and unpredictable than politicians made out. It went up and down quickly, and you went with it. The very things that capitalism likes to promise – growth, wealth, increased consumption – couldn’t be delivered. Soon there would be unemployment, social devastation and ‘No future’, as punk recognised. And yet capitalism could never be abandoned. Since the end of socialism, it saw itself as the natural world. The only way forward was to find a place inside it which wasn’t impossible, hence the retreat into spiritualism, yoga, Zen and mindfulness. Or drugs.

‘Drugs’, when they first became generally available in the ’60s, caused such outrage and consternation that we understood that it wasn’t the undoubted damage that they did which was the problem. The drawback wasn’t the possibility of ill-health or addiction but the instant pleasure which drugs provided. Or at least the pleasure that others believed they provided. This was what R D Laing called ‘a mental Shangri-La’ – the longing for something ‘beyond’.

In the 1990s and 2000s, drugs went respectable and mainstream. Ritalin, Prozac and other anti-depressants – substances which fixed adults and children up for work without the agony of self-investigation – became the royal road to efficiency. A subject’s life and the significance of symptoms were replaced by biology and the language of science; chemistry replaced an individual’s history and doctors were substituted for self-authority. We had become machines which dysfunctioned, not individuals with parents and a past that might be worth exploring in talk and art, or subjects wondering why, inexplicably, they were fatigued or exhausted. There were no illuminating questions or slowing down. The important thing was to function, to work, compete and succeed. Drugs, cures and ideas about what a self was had become an arm of capitalism.

Pleasure, the devil’s elixir, a magic substance more valuable than gold, is always a source of anxiety, which is why pleasure is usually located in other people or groups, where it can be thought about, enjoyed and condemned. The dangers of drugs were not the fact they made for disorientation if not madness and addiction, but that they provided too much unearned illicit, or even evil enjoyment. Drugs were an idiot’s euphoria. The story was: if you liked it, or couldn’t make money from it, it couldn’t possibly be good for you.

Of course, after so long, we now know that neither legal nor illegal drugs are it either. For a time, they seemed to promise freedom from the cycle of work and consumption. But rather than representing a point outside – a place of rest, spiritual enlightenment or insight – they became the very thing we thought they might replace. Soon we would see they created as much dissatisfaction as any other cheap fetishised object.

The druggies, from Baudelaire to Kerouac, had learned that the route to paradise wasn’t simple. Though Baudelaire talks of stoned bliss, of calm, of a place where all philosophical questions can be answered, and of a liberating vulgarity, he makes it clear what hard work it is having a good time all the time.

These artists were artists first, and stoners after. The demand for pleasure can become infernal, and another form of authority. And while drugs might make you poetic – filling the gaps in reality – they can render you useless, if not impotent.

No one believes in drugs anymore. At least in art there is movement and thought. Working at something intransigent, one can make and re-make oneself, combining intelligence with intuition. Drugs, when they are effective, abolish ambivalence. But being an artist can never be straightforward. You must cede control and give way to chaos. In art, as in any other form of love, there will be strong feelings of attraction and of abhorrence. Artists may love what they do but they also hate it. Work can become a tyranny and treadmill. It is boring; the material resists; the audience might be uninterested. It can never be an uncomplicated or straightforward pleasure.

Not only can few artists make a realistic assessment of their own work, their state of mind cannot be expected to be serene. There can be no art without anxiety, self-disgust, fear of failure and of success. It is hard and dull labour, and can feel forced. Notice how almost impossible it is to convince an artist how good their work is. But that is the price of the ticket. At least one is going somewhere.

Illustration by Tim McDonagh

Ramsey Lewis on Jazz

From his early years to now, the three-time Grammy award winner reflects on his career as a jazz pianist, the transformation of the genre and what it means to him 

In the voice of Ramsey Lewis there’s a tempo that gently nudges at the American jazz pianist’s lifelong affair with music. You hear it in the soft, measured cadences that rise and fall in conversation. They move, sway even. And yet there’s earnestness to this ebb and flow, as if it’s being guided by the 82-year-old’s penchant for notes in motion.

It’s unsurprising that Lewis has long been sensitive to different rhythms and tonal sonorities. The three-time Grammy award winner began taking piano lessons in Chicago, his birthplace, before he had reached his fifth birthday. That said, it wasn’t until his teenage years that he would greet jazz music with fresh understanding. “When I started playing jazz with my first group called the Cleffs, I didn’t know a lot of jazz songs – they had to teach me. But unknowingly, I had my own sound,” he tells me, recalling life at the age of 15.  

While Lewis has since witnessed the transformation of the contemporary jazz scene, observing that “there’s not as much live jazz as there was twenty years ago,” his creative approach remains, for the most part, the same. “I know to keep things fresh it’s important to take a break,” he says. When it comes to whether or not he wants to take time away from the piano, however, Lewis’s fondness for music stills reigns supreme. Without hesitation he adds, “I never need a break.”

I ask what jazz is to him and Lewis pauses. Having been shaped by both gospel and classical music – direct results of his time spent playing at his local Church and studying the likes of Bach, Chopin, and Brahms, to name a few – it’s easy to see why. More than a genre or dominant presence in his life, jazz, like these other musical forms, is a natural part of him, as if another limb or facet of his personality. His answer – “it’s a serious form of expression” – sufficed to describe that which was undoubtedly, for him, impossible to translate.

Ramsey Lewis will next be performing live at the Long Beach Jazz Festival in Long Beach, California on 13 August. See his tour dates here.

The Revival of Slowdive

From being dropped by their label in 1995 to finding a new following two decades later, Slowdive bassist Nick Chaplin speaks about the band’s unexpected comeback

Slowdive photographed by Ingrid Pop

The first time that I heard ‘Alison’, the soul-stirring first track from Slowdive’s career-defining album Souvlaki, was as a YouTube recommendation. Although I didn’t know it at the time, I was listening to the song a decade and a half after the English rock band, formed in 1989, were dropped by Creation Records in 1995.

For me, like so many others who were getting into indie music in the late noughties, the genre of ‘shoegaze’ – with its distorted guitars, drowsy vocals and chilled out vibes – provided the ideal soundscape for the sixteen-year-old condition. Indeed, in the noughties a new generation were beginning to discover Slowdive for themselves. 

“We kept getting told from people in the industry, who we knew from the 90s, that there was a whole new audience for us out there,” explains bassist Nick Chaplin. “People who, like you, discovered us via the internet, or who listened to bands that had been influenced by bands like Slowdive, and went back and listened to the older bands as well.”

To understand the significance of this is to understand that Slowdive, and the genre of shoegaze more generally, was widely ridiculed at the time Souvlaki came out. With Britpop on the rise and the winds of fashion well and truly changing, they became infamously uncool. One journalist famously wrote that he would “rather drown choking in a bath full of porridge than ever listen to again.”

“It happened at a time when bands needed to have sound-bites and political statement to make and that wasn’t us,” ,’ says Chaplin. “We were, admittedly, five middle-class kids from the Thames Valley, and a lot was made of that; like we these over-privileged rich kids, which just wasn’t true.’ Once they’d fallen out of favour with the all-powerful music press of their day, the band all but disappeared for 20 years. 

And yet, in the years that followed, a crop of new bands began to emerge who incorporated the short-lived Slowdive sound into their own. From Deerhunter, Tame Impala and Beach House to Rush of Blood To The Head-era Coldplay, the influence of the band stretches from the early noughties well into the present day.

After being pressed repeatedly for at least ten years to get Slowdive back together, the band decided in 2013, after various side-projects, full-time jobs and children, that it was finally time to give it a go. The 2014 Primavera Sound festival in Barcelona was prepared to book them (“on the condition that we put the original line-up back together”), and they were introduced on stage to a sea of fans both new and old.  

“Neil was pretty clear that he didn’t want to do this as a legacy reunion act,” notes Chaplin of the group’s primary songwriter, Neil Halstead. “He was happy to play a couple of shows but if we were to be doing it for more than a couple of months then he wanted to write new tunes.” With more and more live dates piling up, however, and the chance to “pay off the mortgage” while playing music around the world, it’s taken three whole years for a comeback album to surface.   

“I think it’s just a bit more grown up than before,” Chaplin explains of the new record. “We’re talking about people who are in their mid-40s now, and when we recorded Souvlaki we were 22/23 years old.’ 

The term ‘shoegaze’ was coined to describe the way that bands like Slowdive would stand still on stage, looking down at the guitar pedals beside their feet. But Slowdive stood out from others in the scene with their unashamedly classic song structures and lofty pop melodies. The new self-titled album, it’s safe to say, stays true to these roots, but trades the hazy melancholy of Souvlaki for a more upbeat charge. The result is shoegaze for the 21st century. 

“We’ve had an overwhelmingly positive experience getting the band back together over the last three years, which I think is reflected in the songs as well,” Chaplin tells me. “I think a few people have been disappointed that we don’t sound exactly the same, but I think, well, how can you?” 

Slowdive by Slowdive is out now on Dead Oceans