Reflections On a City

Valentin Hennequin and Georgia Thompson’s sleek shoot on the streets of Paris

Full look Lemaire, additional under shirt Dries Van Noten, briefcase by Berluti

L: Shirt, jumper, jacket and bag Dior Men, trousers Zegna, shoes Lemaire. R: Full look Bottega Veneta

Shirt Ernest W.Baker, suit Brioni, coat and tie Dunhill, shoes Hermès

L: Full look Louis Vuitton, tie Dunhill. R: Shirt Ernest W.Baker, suit Brioni, tie Dunhill, shoes Hermès

Full look Miu Miu, roll neck stylists own, trousers Zegna

Full look and scarf Hermès, shoes Prada

Full look Prada

Full suit Celine, coat GmbH

Full look Givenchy

Photography Valentin Hennequin
 
 
 
 
Styling assistant Ophelie Cozette

The Persistence of Memory


BORSALINO X AMI

LOUIS VUITTON

BURBERRY

GIORGIO ARMANI

CELINE

NANUSHKA

BERLUTI

DIOR

HERMÈS

PRADA

STEFAN COOKE

SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO

MARGARET HOWELL

HUGO BOSS

Photography Joe Lai 

Set design Jade Boyeldieu d’Auvigny 

Styling Lune Kuipers

This article is taken from Port issue 30. To continue reading, buy the issue or subscribe here

Paris Fashion Week 2018

Port‘s fashion editor picks the best looks from the Paris Spring Summer 2019 shows

Paris was hot, the schedule cramped and the calibre of designers high. Conversion centred on the clash of titans: Kim Jones v Virgil Abloh – Jones, the fashion darling’s master craftsman, launched his debut at Dior, and Abloh, the self-made cult figure of streetwear, did the same at Louis Vuitton. Very good friends, both have the press, celebrity appeal, and the power to drive menswear in two very different directions – Kim pushing towards couture and Abloh humbling luxury fashion by including it in a wider cultural conversation. 

Dior – LOOK 35

The much anticipated debut collection from Kim Jones delivered in abundance; a breathtakingly chic parade of soft pinks, blues, tans and whites that took form in a diverse range of suiting, shorts, shirts and beautifully crafted coats and jackets. Models circled a towering cartoon-like floral sculpture created by Dior collaborator and New York street artist, KAWS. The giant ‘BFF’ companion mascot seemed triumphant as it heralded a new dawn for the elevation of both menswear and Dior Homme. Accomplishing his self-assigned mission to translate “feminine couture identity into a masculine idiom”, here Jones transcends the simple overcoat with a weightless transparency and florals sculpted from feathers. True luxury.

Hermès – LOOK 48

While remaining true to the brand’s luxury codes, Hermès’s long-standing designer Veronique Nichanian added subtle touches of streetwear and splashes of bold colour to bring the house up to date with modern trends for Spring Summer 19. Set in the historic Cloître des Cordeliers courtyard on breezy Saturday evening, with Hermes’ crisp white laundry hanging on lines overhead, models sauntered by nonchalantly, as if holidaying on the French Rivera. The fabrics remained luxury and the collection, on the whole, effortless, but the inclusion of season highlights such as the use of yellow and, in this look, the headline making ‘short’ short, proved the continued relevance of the brand.

Dunhill – LOOK 25

Continuing to shake things up in his second year at the creative helm of the British heritage brand, Mark Weston presented a collection that was elegant, fluid and subversive. The arched passageway of the Jacques-Decour private school was the perfect backdrop for this lesson in modern tailoring, with Weston questioning “notions of taste and aspiration, particularly those related to certain ideas of British clothing cultures” with looks designed to blur class boundaries – in this instance a sublime suit wore shirtless to increase its street credibility.

Loewe – LOOK 17

Jonathan Anderson wanted to tell ‘intimate stories of bohemian life’ through his SS19 collection of oversized knits, casual linens, and hippy-like, eccentric prints, which included the surprise motif of Disney favourite Dumbo. The presentation style was as laid-back as the collection: models rotated, clothes were hung so the tactile fabrics could be touched, and brightly coloured pom-poms covered the floor playfully. The collection was accompanied by images of the models casually placed in and around an empty Madrid mansion – painting, musing or relaxing, and continuing this idea of romanticised decadence. Ready-to-wear was of course accompanied by leather bags, the origin of the Loewe brand – in this look, a practical butter-soft brown rucksack that perfectly compliments a sun-bleached effect tie-dyed shirt and short combo.

Louis Vuitton – LOOK 37

The fashion industry waited with bated breath for Virgil Abloh’s debut at Louis Vuitton, eager to see how the streetwear giant would translate his urban style into a luxury product. As if symbolic of Abloh’s meteoric rise, the seemingly endless rainbow runway in the Jardin du Palais Royal gave a sense of optimism and change. A parade of all-white tailoring – neat jackets and shirts teamed with relaxed over-sized trousers – was followed by Abloh’s familiar territory of technical wear, harnesses, flashes of neon and bold colours, including this red look: sportswear-influenced in its silhouette yet elevated by styling and an elegant brown leather trench.

Illustration Jayma Sacco

Leatherworkers: Les Petits Nomades

As Louis Vuitton launch their new homeware range, Port speaks to the designers behind it: Atelier Oï, Patricia Urquiola, Humberto & Fernando Campana, and Marcel Wanders 

Launched in 2012, Louis Vuitton’s annual Objets Nomades collections allows leading designers to create pieces that channel the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship and quality. For the first time, this year’s Objets Nomades have been joined by Les Petits Nomades – smaller, decorative objects designed specifically for the home. The work of such celebrated names as Humberto & Fernando Campana, the Swedish design house Atelier Oï, Patricia Urquiola and Marcel Wanders, the new collection is now on display at the Fuori Salone in Milan.

In their re-scaled, domestic form, each object is a concentrated mixture of the designer’s unique vision and Louis Vuitton’s craftsmanship. The contrasting visions show the adaptability of the materials, and how they can be re-formed to be both functional and elegant. Each piece demonstrates an attention to detail, in the minute elements of the design, that is animated by an inventiveness, their voices undiminished by their size.

Here, Port talks to the designers who re-imagined the brand’s iconic leather into petals, diamond mirrors and origami flowers.

Origami Flowers by Atelier Oï

Atelier Oï

The project is concentrated on the ornamental and the objects are meant to integrate a home interior with an ornamental, but still functional, touch. We looked to nature for inspiration and a flower pattern that we derived from the monogram of Louis Vuitton. A bunch of flowers are a traditional present and this brought us to the idea of creating durable leather versions through being faithful to our creative processes based on our material manipulation – thinking how does a flat leather piece become three-dimensional and a flower? This way of working represents for us a direct association with Louis Vuitton’s know-how and ours.

Overlay Bowl by Patricia Urquiola

Patricia Urquiola  

Each overlay vase is the meeting of only four sheets, expertly assembled in soft and durable Louis Vuitton leather. With harmonious and full contrasting colours, the bowls are all individually handmade. Each is unique, an original sculpture and a beautiful example of the maison’s leather workmanship. It is a simple object whose value is given by the material and the way it was made.

Diamond Mirror by Marcel Wanders

Marcel Wanders 

We collaborated with Louis Vuitton to create mirrors that have been designed in two sizes. Both feature a central octagon that is circled by 25 smaller triangular mirrors and use dazzling geometric design to create poetic reflections. These mirrors playfully combine a rigorous geometrical design with subtle bright reflections revealed through the effect of surrounding light, bringing poetry and enlightenment to any room.

We were inspired mostly by the Louis Vuitton brand. These mirrors express Louis Vuitton’s long standing tradition of producing luxurious, iconic items. The company has a heritage of creating with attention to detail. To be able to reflect our individual nature and human spirit, while combining that experience with the craftsmanship that Louis Vuitton has become known for, is priceless.

Each mirror’s faceted rigid structure is enveloped in Louis Vuitton’s rich Nomade leather and reveals Louis Vuitton’s emblematic contrasting stitching. The mirrors are then mounted on a heavyweight brass stand with a marble foot.

Tropicalist Vase by Fernando & Humberto Campana

Fernando & Humberto Campana

The Tropicalist vase is a symbolism between Louis Vuitton’s flower icon and our Brazilianness – we like the idea of hybrids and conversations between different cultures. The design was inspired by the natural geometric composition of the quesnelia and bromeilad flowers found in South America, and also by wild and joyful natural elements. Nature is for us one of the most important inspirations. A construction of 176 two-tone leather-covered metal ‘petals’, the Tropicalist Vase is a statement to the different ways that Louis Vuitton’s materials can be crafted.

Photography Phillipe Lacombe 

 

Louis Vuitton’s New Objets Nomades

A look at Patricia Urquiola, the Campana Brothers and Raw Edges’ designs for a collection of objects inspired by travel

Now in its fifth year, Louis Vuitton’s Objets Nomades has seen some of the design world’s best and brightest interpret ideas about travel through an evolving collection of homewares, from a swing to a foldable stool. The project has been an ongoing opportunity for the French fashion house to partner with design talent from around the world, including Spanish architect and designer Patricia Urquiola, London studio Raw Edges and, most recently, India Mahdavi and Tokujin Yoshioka. Designers are given free rein, resulting in pieces as outlandish as the Campana Brothers’ cloud-like Bomboca sofa, but an emphasis on leatherwork and craftsmanship nods to Louis Vuitton’s heritage throughout. With the addition of 10 new designs, the collection now totals 25 objects imagined by 13 collaborators. 

Louis Vuitton’s Objets Nomades is at Palazzo Bocconi, Corso Venezia 48, Milan until April 9