Discreet Chimera

Dior and sacai splice identities

Born in the landlocked countryside of Gifu, Chitose Abe spent her childhood making clothes for dolls. Her mother was a seamstress, and, at the request of Abe, could often be found tailoring her outfits, adjusting hems to turn heads. Rural neighbours clucked and tutted, finding her uncompromising style and personal quirks “bizarre”. The metropolis of Tokyo beckoned. After finishing design school, she worked as a patternmaker under Rei Kawakubo at the avant-garde Comme des Garçons, eventually leaving to raise her newborn daughter. Abe would shake off her creative ennui in motherhood two years later by starting her own home-run label: sacai, a derivation of her maiden name.

What began in 1999 as a modest offering of hand-knitted garments has since grown into a global beast. Renowned for its collaborations and hybridisation – splicing and juxtaposing cut and cloth – Abe’s stake remains at 100 per cent, meaning she makes what she wants, still does the accounting, and works with whomever she pleases. Kim Jones, Dior Men’s artistic director, is her latest design accomplice. “Working with sacai was a very personal choice because of our close friendship,” notes Jones. “I’ve known Chitose for a long time, and we’ve always had this conversation about doing a project together. Samples were sent back and forth between both studios and we spoke a lot. Everyone in Paris and Tokyo worked together. There have always been links between Dior and Japan, so I felt that it would be nice to reinforce a bond that isn’t physically possible at the moment.”

Released this November, the duo’s 57-piece collection is a sharp assimilation of tailoring, couture, work-, and sportswear. Archetypes from the French house – overcoats, the Tailleur Oblique, floral motifs – are completed in signature sacai fabrics such as Japanese denim, nylon, and textured jacquard, while contrasting panels and utilitarian detailing lend a roaming asymmetry. The concentrated palette of white and near-black blue is offset by pocket and drawstring embellishments on the capsule’s standout saddle and duffle bags, dashes of olive and orange referencing Abe’s classic bomber jacket. From the soft berets courtesy of Stephen Jones down to the triple-soled Chelsea boots, each item is a considered synthesis. The two voices are distinct yet coalesce – illustrated by ‘sacai’ itself being embedded in the slender ‘I’ of Dior’s logotype; a testament to the exchange, and the independent spirit of Abe.

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When Worlds Collide

The ancient savoir-faire behind Dior men’s fall 2021 collection

Modernity meets antiquity in the latest colourful collaboration between Kim Jones and American artist Kenny Scharf. Originally intended to be presented in Beijing, Dior men’s fall 2021 collection – unveiled yesterday – combines a heady mix of street art, pop culture, science fiction and ancient, traditional technique. It’s a fantastically surreal antidote to the grey of 2020.

Silhouettes are loose and relaxed, with military cuts coming to the fore in trousers and jackets, punctuated by the cartoon-like, day-glo designs of Scharf. The LA-based artist was chosen as an emblematic figure of the interdisciplinary East Village art scene in the 1980s – alongside luminaries such as Jean-Michel Basquiat and Keith Haring – further illustrating Jones’ desire to bring art onto the runway.

The house also enlisted the talents of Chinese embroidery masters to translate Scharf’s 1984 painting ‘When Worlds Collide’ into a shirt, using one of the most highly skilled stitches, the seed stitch. The 2000-year-old technique which dates back to the Han dynasty – also known as the ‘forbidden stitch’ because its laborious fineness could ruin sight through eyestrain – was employed using 300 different colours of silk yarn. Given that it took ​1,600 hours to complete, it’s another wonderful example of Dior’s ability to fuse contrasting cultures, savoir-faire and timelines to great effect.

In an exclusive for Port, you can see the process behind the embroidery here (subtitles recommended) –

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Portrait of an Artist

Kim Jones collaborates with Amoako Boafo for Dior’s stunning Summer 2021 Men’s collection

When Dior Men’s Kim Jones met Amoako Boafo, it was artistic love at first sight. The kindred spirits met at the Rubell Museum in Miami last year, bonding over art and the vast continent of Africa, where the artistic director lived much of his childhood. The formative years of his life spent in Tanzania, Botswana, Ethiopia and Ghana – its cultures, textiles and natural landscape – have now found a home in the Summer 2021 Men’s collection.

Ghanaian-born and Vienna-trained artist Boafo’s widely celebrated Black Diaspora portraits explore, in part, black masculinity, and have been transposed both literally and figuratively onto garments.

The painter’s surreal palette also provides a strong foundation of colour for the collection, fluorescent yellow sitting alongside coral, pink, blue and green, while paintbrush strokes on a canvas have inspired ribbed knits and jacquard patterns. Subtle, narrow and streamlined, silhouettes manage to move fluidly between sportswear and couture house.

The video revealing the collection is presented in two parts, the first instalment edited and sound tracked by video artist Chris Cunningham, shot in London and at Boafo’s studio in Ghana, with the second unveiling Jones’ creations, directed by Jackie Nickerson. The former is a wonderful snapshot into Boafo’s process and the reasoning behind the collaboration and can be seen below. 

 

City Boy: Phil Foden

Port meets the rising star of British football, Phil Foden, as Nike launch a new collection designed by Kim Jones

Phil Foden may be a teenager but he has already garnered more accolades than most players could dream of. A product of Manchester City’s youth system, last month, as part of Pep Guardiola’s record-breaking title-winning side, Foden became the youngest player in history to pick up a Premier League medal. A handful of performances – notably a precociously assured display against Manchester United – have thrust the young midfielder into the spotlight. 

Foden’s breakthrough domestic season came after a special performance at the Under-17 World Cup in India last summer. He made headlines after scoring two in the final, with England coming from behind to win the trophy, beating an impressive Spain side 5-2. He would later be awarded player of the tournament, placing him in the glittering company of Cesc Fàbregas and Toni Kroos.

Passing through Foden’s hometown of Stockport on the London train to Manchester Piccadilly, the towering 55,000-seat Etihad Stadium comes into view – and Foden’s own journey, from life in the suburbs to one of the biggest stages in world football, suddenly becomes apparent. The ground stands as a marker of Manchester City’s meteoric rise to the top of the game, and it’s a trajectory Foden seems well placed to follow.

Despite the plaudits and lofty comparisons, Foden is focused on the job at hand. On a sunny day in Salford, we joined him to celebrate the launch of Kim Jones’ football-inspired collection for Nike. An avid enthusiast of the game, Jones blends football’s iconic silhouettes with the brash edginess of London’s 1970’s punk scene. Foden looks at home in it.

“It’s different from other Nike ranges,” he says, looking down at the pieces he is wearing. “It’s comfortable, and it feels nice and tight fitting, which I like.” The items are made exclusively in Italy, using only Italian materials. It’s an understated, professional, high-quality collection, befitting a model that holds the composure and confidence of a player on the cusp of success. 

“Dedication,” Foden says when asked what he attributes his accelerated progression to. “My mum and dad have helped me with moving away from my home area and getting my head down.” This dedication could just as easily be described as obsession, a mentality of focused determination that often separates top athletes from their peers. Even after a day of training, Foden’s hunger to improve isn’t sated. “When I feel like I need to do more, I’m out in my garden playing football with my brother,” he says. “I do get tired, so I try and get a decent night’s sleep – I try and rest. But, if I feel like I’ve got more energy, I go out and train.”

Foden would play football every day of the week if he could. Even when asked about his lifestyle off of the pitch, the 17-year-old answers through the lens of an all-consuming obsession. Last season, after the Under-17 Euros in Croatia, Foden visited the estate he grew up on and was inundated with youngsters wanting to play football with him. He duly started playing at 1pm and was only allowed to stop, hours later, at 9. “The next day I couldn’t walk,” he jokes.

On the occasions that Foden does switch off, he leaves the city altogether. “I try and go fishing; I find it relaxing,” he says. While others jetted off on holiday to celebrate the title triumph earlier this summer, he “went fishing, in a tent, in England.” For Foden, fishing is time spent with his father, and given the frequency with which family is mentioned when we discuss his development, it’s clear that they have been crucial in nurturing the teenager through the early stages of his career. “They helped me get where I am today, really,” Foden says. “They’ve not missed a game.” 

Few industries offer the opportunities for travel that football can. The sport is global in every sense of the word, and Foden has a long career of regular trips ahead of him. We asked where he is most looking forward to visiting. “I’ve been to a few now,” he says. “I like America, though, so hopefully I can go back there. We’re going there for preseason, actually.” The summer tour will kick off another important year in Foden’s development, and we discussed the teams he is most keen to face up against in the sky blue of City. “I liked playing against Real Madrid. I’d like to play against Barcelona, though, to see what they’re like. It’s good watching them on TV but I want to be on the pitch next time… chasing them,” he laughs.

Despite the extraordinary situation in which he finds himself, Foden is recognisably an English teenager. “I don’t know how to make toast,” he jests when asked about his ability in the kitchen, citing his mother’s steak and chips as the house’s specialty. Outside of fishing, his downtime means playing Fortnite, the wildly popular online game that has seen the likes of Dele Alli and Antoine Griezmann ape its in-game dances as goal celebrations. Asked if he’d follow suit, Foden smiles and says: “Well, if I score, yeah – why not?”. It’s a comment that evinces Foden’s sense of where his career currently stands; he’s focused on the incremental steps, quietly aware of his ability, and is taking it all in good humour. 

Before getting back to finish the shoot, we considered the expectations placed on young athletes, particularly footballers, to succeed. After years developing at one of the world’s biggest clubs, as well as representing England at every age group since Under-16, Foden is not only well-conditioned to handle it, but rejects the notion altogether. “I don’t feel the pressure,” he says. “I just feel at home. When I get on the pitch I just feel comfortable. It’s where I feel like I belong.”

Nike x Kim Jones collection available from 6th June at Nike.com

Photography Neil Bedford
Styling Rose Forde
Hair and makeup Ditte Lund Lassen using Oribe Hair Care, Eau Thermale Avène and Glossier.com