Food & Drink

The Chef’s BBQ: Andy Rose, Boisdale

The Executive Head Chef shares his BBQ tips and explains why there are no rules when it comes to the coals

Boisdale

“It’s a completely different way of cooking, it’s relaxed, easy, and anything goes. Have fun with it; experiment”

I can’t imagine Andy Rose has ever burnt a piece of meat whilst drunkenly dancing to Kylie and staring, trance-like, into the glow of hot coals as if contemplating a lengthy stay at a satanic all-inclusive. Then again, I’ve never been inside the kitchens at Boisdale. As Executive Head Chef of the group of British restaurants – which trade mainly in steaks, seafood and scotch – Rose knows a thing or two about sourcing and cooking the highest quality meat.

But he’s also a former British BBQ champion (“a bit of a fluke” he tells me). Below he shows us how to make great homemade ketchup, a zesty salad and a simple dry rub and fish marinade to make your BBQ really sizzle. I wonder whether for chefs, a BBQ is a great chance to throw off the shackles and precision of cooking in a professional kitchen?

“Well it’s certainly more social,” says Andy laughing. “It’s a completely different way of cooking, it’s relaxed, easy, and anything goes. You’re not particularly worried if things overcook. You don’t have to worry about slow cooking and searing.”

Cooking a steak in Rose’s kitchen to the point of it turning “a bit crispy” will likely result in a severe dressing down. But it’s a very different discipline out on the patio or at the bottom of the garden, so what should the average consumer be looking for in their meat?

Says Andy: “Something with a good fat distribution is key. I think pork and lamb and ribs of beef are preferable. Marinating in either a fresh herb or dry rub is crucial and also a hot BBQ – don’t be frightened of getting some nice charring on the outside. Have fun with it; experiment.”


Dry rub for meats

2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons soft brown sugar
2 tablespoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons smoked paprika powder
2 tablespoons ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chilli powder
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper

Combine all ingredients and mix well. Work into the surface of chicken, pork or beef and leave for 24 hours to take the flavours. Can be used for flash BBQ’ing IE steaks or long slow BBQ’ing brisket, ribs, belly.

Citrus & herb marinade for fish or shellfish

50ml of good olive oil
1 lemon, zest only
1 orange, zest only
1” of fresh ginger, grated
1 pinch of chili flakes
Handful of fresh basil, shredded
Handful of parsley, roughly chopped
½ teaspoon of pink peppercorns – crushed

Combine all ingredients together. Marinade the fish or shellfish for 20 min before cooking. Especially great for fish skewers, prawns & sea bass.

Tomato ketchup

2kg over ripe tomatoes, chopped
3 big white onions, peeled then roughly chopped
5 sticks of celery, chopped
5 tbsp olive oil
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp ground coriander
1 short cinnamon stick
1 tsp allspice
½ tsp ground black pepper
2 tsp celery salt
3 tbsp tomato purée
½ tsp Tabasco sauce
200ml white wine vinegar
200g soft brown sugar

Heat the oil in your pot, add the onions and celery, cover, then soften over a low heat for eight minutes. Add the garlic, cook for another five minutes, then add the spices. Now stir in all remaining ingredients and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, uncovered, for about an hour to an hour and a half until the tomatoes are squashy and the liquid has reduced. Place in a liquidiser and mix until smooth. Store in an airtight jar and refrigerate for up to three months.

Prawns with lentils & pennywort
6 x starter size

3 pink grapefruit, segments – 3 per plate
1/4 ripe avocado, scooped and sliced, mix with grapefruit juice ¼ per plate
10g rocket
4-5 Pennywort washed for top
40g prawns
1 tbsp pumpkin seeds, toasted

For the salad
500g lentils, rinsed
1 red onion, diced
120g golden raisins
4 tbsp capers, rinsed

For the dressing
8 tbsp olive oil
4 tbsp apple cider vinegar
2 tbsp maple syrup
2 tbsp dijon mustard
1 tsp salt
1 tsp pepper
½ tsp ground cumin
A small pinch each of ground turmeric, ground coriander, ground cardamom, cayenne pepper, ground cloves, freshly grated nutmeg and ground cinnamon

Fold the salad gently and scatter with the remaining ingredients, including the juice, before serving. Adjust the seasoning.

boisdale.co.uk

Boisdale

“Reduce the heat to a simmer, uncovered, until the tomatoes are squashy and the liquid has reduced. Store in an airtight jar and refrigerate for up to three months”