Ahead of the London gin festival this weekend, Port hits the bottle in the name of research
Ever since Sipsmith opened the first London copper-pot gin distillery in nearly 200 years, back in 2009, gin has been at the forefront of artisanal drinks trends. It’s ridden the Mezcal wave and traversed the Aperol spritz river. Perhaps its versatility as a cocktail ingredient has allowed it to interweave with and feed off other trends – the return of the negroni for instance. Maybe its potency inspires its producers to constantly search for new ways to successfully titillate the palettes of gin drinkers (see our piece on cask-aged gins from late last year).
This weekend sees a celebration of all things gin, hosted by Gin Foundry, who know a thing or two about the grog. Ahead of World Gin Day on 14 June, Junipalooza will see consumers mingle with producers for a series of tastings and workshops at Factory 7 in Shoreditch. In the name of thorough and absolute reportage, we sampled a handful of the international craft gins on offer – some of which have never been seen in the UK before – ahead of the event. Here are our deeply scientific findings, presented in descending order of favour (hic).
“Terroir is a patriotic gin – it’s how we like our Americans to taste”
Perry’s Tot, USA (57 percent ABV)
American distillers are leading the way in the world of craft gin and this fruity, floral navy strength (a title bestowed on any gin over 55 percent) spirit from the New York Distilling Company in Brooklyn is no exception. Botanicals include grapefruit and honey, though the latter is lost on the tongue somewhat. With hints of lavender on the nose this is a great all-rounder and had the Port team cooing with satisfaction.
St George Terroir, USA (45 percent ABV)
Inspired by the dense, lush forests of the Golden State, this Californian gin took us by surprise with its strong fir and citrus notes and turned out to be very enjoyable. Juniper forward and very strong on the nose, Terroir is a patriotic gin – it’s how we like our Americans to taste – and would work well in winter cocktails or served straight with a zesty slice of orange.
Filliers Dry 28, Belgium (46 percent ABV)
Filliers contains 29 botanicals (28 plus juniper) and comes from one of the oldest distillers in the world. Cardamom and coriander are the principle notes here, both of which linger on the palette, so unsurprisingly this would work well with matching foods, though the after-taste is a little abrasive. Again, suitable for warming winter cocktails, though the flavour profile isn’t for everyone.
Citadelle, France (44 percent ABV)
This resembles a London dry on the nose and is very drinkable, though largely featureless apart from subtle hints of cinnamon. Perfect for quaffing with lime and tonic, this is a good entry-level gin though it’s unlikely to set pulses racing and connoisseurs will be left wanting. Tolerant, patient and non-offensive.
Hernö, Sweden (40 percent ABV)
Sweden’s first foray into the gin market is an unsuccessful one. Unsurprisingly for a Scandinavian spirit, Hernö is heavy on the floral and herb notes, but the meadowsweet – a medicinal herbal flower – gives it an unpleasant earthy taste that overpowers the vanilla, the other main botanical. The nose is sweet and floral, with hints of aniseed, but citrus fruit is not a great accompaniment.
Juniapalooza runs 6-8 June at Factory 7, 13 Hearn Street, Shoreditch, London EC2A 3LS. Weekend and day tickets are available HERE
