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	<title>Port Magazine</title>
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	<link>http://www.port-magazine.com</link>
	<description>The Magazine for Men</description>
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		<title>Clerkenwell Design Week 2013: Highlights</title>
		<link>http://www.port-magazine.com/design/clerkenwell-design-week-2013-highlights/</link>
		<comments>http://www.port-magazine.com/design/clerkenwell-design-week-2013-highlights/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 10:07:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Alyn Griffiths</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Feature]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[<em>Port's</em> design editor Alyn Griffiths picks out the highlights of this year's ambitious festival]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<ul id="slider">
<li><strong><em>Port&#8217;s</em> design editor Alyn Griffiths picks out the highlights of this year&#8217;s ambitious festival</strong>
<p><div class="one_half first flex_column"><p><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Jill-Tate_TILT_Collection_HR.jpg" alt="Jill-Tate_TILT_Collection_HR" title="Jill-Tate_TILT_Collection_HR" width="450" height="338" class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27721" /></p>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p>Clerkenwell Design Week took over <em>Port’s</em> home borough this week, filling showrooms and public spaces with examples of cutting-edge design. Despite the gloomy weather, there was enough quality work on show to raise the spirits and an extensive series of seminars and parties kept visitors entertained late into the evenings. </p>
<p>At the Farmiloe Building, London-based design and architecture practice, TILT, presented a range of products developed through collaborations with various clients. These included the new Quiet Chair (see photo: back left) and Call Booth (see photo: front right), which were developed alongside staff and patients at Whittington Hospital to provide quiet and personal spaces for patients to escape to.</p>
<div class="credit">Left: TILT&#8217;s collection of co-designed products</div>
</div></p>
<p><div class="one_half first flex_column"><p>London-based Norwegian designer <a href="http://magnuspettersen.com" title="Magnus Pettersen, designer's homepage" target="_blank" class="white">Magnus Pettersen </a>launched new products at the Farmiloe Building, including some practical and elegant storage solutions. </p>
<p>Designed with a small footprint to fit the narrow hallways common in London’s Victorian properties, the steel frames are also visually unobtrusive. An anodised aluminium surface provides space for shoes and bags below the coat rail, and a tray at the base of the mirror can be used to hold keys, mail and other accoutrements.</p>
<div class="credit">Right: Magnus Pettersen&#8217;s innovative space-saving designs for urban living</div>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Magnus-Pettersen_Service-collection.jpg" alt="Magnus-Pettersen_Service-collection" title="Magnus-Pettersen_Service-collection" width="450" height="338" class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27729" /></p>
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<p><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/yuck-spacer.png" alt="" width="900" height="10" /></li>
<li><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/FredJuul_Raffaele-pendant-lamp.jpg" alt="Fred&amp;Juul_Raffaele-pendant-lamp" title="Fred&amp;Juul_Raffaele-pendant-lamp" width="930" height="620" class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27739" /><br />
<div class="one_half first flex_column"><p>The Raffaele pendant lamps by Federico Minarelli and Julie Janssen are made from sand-cast brass, which adds patina to the warm metal surfaces. The Italian/Dutch duo collaborate under the moniker <a href="http://www.fredandjuul.com" title="Fred&#038;Juul" target="_blank" class="white">Fred&#038;Juul</a>, and their range of interior products emerged as a result of commissioning custom made furniture from artisans local to their studio in Tuscany. Fred&#038;Juul exhibited at the House of Detention which, as in previous years, hosted an eclectic collection of exhibitors including furniture makers Barnby &#038; Day – see our previous story about <a href="http://www.port-magazine.com/design/making-wood-work-at-clerkenwell-design-week/" title="Making Wood Work: Clerkenwell Design Week" target="_blank" class="white">wooden furniture at Clerkenwell Design Week</a>.</p>
<p>Ying Chang, a first year student on the Royal College of Art&#8217;s Design Products course, showed a collection of moulded paper tableware as part of an exhibition of food-themed designs curated by non-profit organisation, Craft Central. The products include a vase, plate and vessels shaped from laminated paper, with a jesmonite coating creating an impermeable surface that enhances the functionality.</p>
<div class="credit">Above: Fred&#038;Juul&#8217;s Raffaele pendant lamp</div>
<div class="credit">Right: Ying Chang&#8217;s Ghost Vase</div>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Ying-Chang_Ghost-Vase.jpg" alt="Ying-Chang_Ghost-Vase" title="Ying-Chang_Ghost-Vase" width="450" height="485" class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27738" /></p>
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<p><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/yuck-spacer.png" alt="" width="900" height="10" /></li>
<li><div class="one_half first flex_column"><p>In the impressive surroundings of the Order of St John, work by designers predominantly dealing in decorative furnishings and fabrics was displayed. <a href="http://www.evespencer.com" title="Eve Spencer Wallpaper &#038; Fabric designs" target="_blank" class="white">Eve Spencer’s</a> digitally printed textiles and wallcoverings stood out thanks to their quirky motifs and hand painted detail. Furniture designers Larkbeck also showed a selection of beautifully crafted pieces at the same venue – see their work in our previous story about wooden furniture at Clerkenwell Design Week.</p>
<p>At the Museum of the Order of St John, designer Florian Dussopt and journalist Géraldine Vessière presented the second edition of a project called Design Exquis based on a game called cadavre exquis, originally devised by the Surrealist artists. The curators give a designer an industrial design object (in this case, a stethoscope) and ask them to use this as inspiration for a new object. </p>
<p>The outcome is then passed on to another designer to do the same. The last of the four designers involved was <a href="http://www.plummerfernandez.com" title="Matthew Plummer-Fernandez homepage" target="_blank" class="white">Matthew Plummer-Fernandez</a>, who uploaded a photograph of the feather-covered light provided by Georg Œhler into Google search and generated an algorithm to create a 3D model based on one of the search results. “We see design as a language – everybody involved in this project speaks this language but with different accents,” explains Dussopt. “The result is a collection of objects that speak about the diversity of design.”</p>
<div class="credit">Top Right: Eve Spencer&#8217;s &#8216;Cat Hawk&#8217; pattern wallpaper, from the Avant Garde collection</div>
<div class="credit">Bottom Right: Matthew Plummer-Fernandez&#8217;s outcome at Design Exquis</em></div>
<p><em>See more highlights from <a href="http://www.clerkenwelldesignweek.com" title="CDW 13: homepage for Clerkenwell Design Week" target="_blank" class="white">Clerkenwell Design Week</a> 2013 on their website</em></p>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Eve-Spencer_Cat-Hawk-pattern-from-the-Avant-Garde-collection.jpg" alt="Eve-Spencer_Cat-Hawk-pattern-from-the-Avant-Garde-collection" title="Eve-Spencer_Cat-Hawk-pattern-from-the-Avant-Garde-collection" width="450" height="360" class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27748" /><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Design-Exquis_Matthew-Plummer-Fernandez_outcome.jpg" alt="Design-Exquis_Matthew-Plummer-Fernandez_outcome" title="Design-Exquis_Matthew-Plummer-Fernandez_outcome" width="450" height="677" class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27749" /></p>
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		<title>Vilma Gold: One After One</title>
		<link>http://www.port-magazine.com/art-photography/vilma-gold-one-after-one/</link>
		<comments>http://www.port-magazine.com/art-photography/vilma-gold-one-after-one/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 24 May 2013 09:00:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>William Kherbek</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Art & Photography]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.port-magazine.com/?p=27701</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Messy enough to be fun without, being just messy. The new collective show from Eloise Hawser, Lena Henke, Adriana Lara, Marlie Mul, Lucie Stahl, Gili Tal]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Messy enough to be fun without, being just messy. The new collective show from Eloise Hawser, Lena Henke, Adriana Lara, Marlie Mul, Lucie Stahl, Gili Tal</strong><br />
<div class="one_half first flex_column"><div id="attachment_27703" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 450px"><img class="size-full wp-image-27703" title="Lucie Stahl Surveillance, 2012 Archival inkjet print, UV-Lack, Polyurethane 167 x 120 cm / 66 x 47 ins Edition 1 of 3, + 2 AP" src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/VG-STAHL-00002.jpg" alt="Lucie Stahl Surveillance, 2012 Archival inkjet print, UV-Lack, Polyurethane 167 x 120 cm / 66 x 47 ins Edition 1 of 3, + 2 AP" width="440" height="587" />
<p class="wp-caption-text">Lucie Stahl, Surveillance, 2012. Courtesy of the artist and Vilma Gold</p>
</div>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p>It was one of those strange paradoxes that made <em>One After One</em> seem like an interesting show. It had been a long time since I&#8217;d been to Vilma Gold Gallery and, diligently investigating their website to see what was on display I came across the following sentence in the press release for <em>One After One</em>: &#8220;Linking works loosely by what we regarded as a sensitised awareness of the artists&#8217; subjectivity as artists that consciously underpinned decisions made but without totally foreclosing content.&#8221; To which may I only add the biggest, fattest &#8220;sic&#8221; that&#8217;s ever been added to anything.</p>
<p>I think I speak for all of humankind in emitting a morose &#8220;WHAAAAAT?&#8221; Alix Rule and David Levine recently noted the emergence of a new dialect of English known as &#8220;International Art English&#8221; which exists solely for the purpose of writing press releases that are semi-comprehensible to the polyglot art world of now, but I think the sentence quoted above must at some level represent the death of International Art English in that it is completely incomprehensible to all speakers of any languages under any and all circumstances for all time. And so, having read what I boldly predict will be the standard by which all incomprehensible bits of jargon will be judged for decades to come, I had to see the show that engendered the worst art-sentence I&#8217;d ever encountered.</p>
</div></p>
<div class="linear">
<blockquote><p><strong>&#8220;It&#8217;s just messy enough to be fun without being so messy that you notice it&#8217;s messy. No mean feat.&#8221;</strong></p></blockquote>
</div>
<p><div class="one_half first flex_column"><p>I mentioned a paradox earlier and it&#8217;s this: <em>One After One</em> is probably the best show I&#8217;ve seen at Vilma Gold in a very long time. That&#8217;s not to say it&#8217;s not a fine gallery; it&#8217;s hosted many fine shows, including a particularly memorable show of work by Markus Selg a few years ago which still burns bright in my memory, but there&#8217;s a freshness and vitalism to <em>One After One</em> which overcomes the usual good taste and decorum that is a trademark of Vilma Gold shows. It&#8217;s just messy enough to be fun without being so messy that you notice it&#8217;s messy. No mean feat. Lucy Stahl has some nicely primeval photo-print mash-ups on display that jab a spear into art historical treatments of the female form. </p>
<p>Marlie Mul&#8217;s viscous puddles of muck are anything but pretty, grit, tar, plastic, everything you might encounter on an unfinished bit of road paving reduced to a smallish orbit in which you could get lost seeking your own reflection. They&#8217;ve got a bitter grace that falls just the right side of literalism. Lena Henke&#8217;s silkscreens are odd, evocative and romantic in a post-romantic kind of way; Gili Tal&#8217;s work hovering between fresco and graffiti puzzles interestingly over the narrative character of type-faces without being all fussy and prim. Eloise Hawser&#8217;s sculptures deconstruct the relationship between materials and functionality with studied whimsy. It&#8217;s a show with lots to say and so, perhaps an inarticulate press release is that much more apropos.</p>
<p><em>One After One runs until 1 June at <a title="Vilma Gold, Minerva Street art gallery" href="http://www.vilmagold.com/" target="_blank">Vilma Gold,</a> 6 Minerva Street, London E2 9EH</em></p>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><div id="attachment_27707" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 450px"><img class="size-full wp-image-27707" title="Marlie Mul  Puddle (Black outlet), 2013 sand, resin and plastic bag 2 x 77 x 76 cm / 1 x 30 x 30 ins" src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/VG-MULM-00002.jpg" alt="Marlie Mul  Puddle (Black outlet), 2013 sand, resin and plastic bag 2 x 77 x 76 cm / 1 x 30 x 30 ins" width="440" height="659" />
<p class="wp-caption-text">Marlie Mul, Puddle (Black outlet), 2013. Courtesy of the artist and Vilma Gold</p>
</div>
</div></p>
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		<title>Ted Baker SS13: School of Etiquette &amp; Protocol</title>
		<link>http://www.port-magazine.com/fashion/ted-baker-ss13-school-of-etiquette-protocol/</link>
		<comments>http://www.port-magazine.com/fashion/ted-baker-ss13-school-of-etiquette-protocol/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 11:43:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David Hellqvist</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Feature]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.port-magazine.com/?p=27632</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Founder Ray Kelvin talks about colourful summer knits, linen chinos and the importance of learning correct social skills]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<ul id="slider">
<li><strong>Founder Ray Kelvin talks about colourful summer knits, linen chinos and the importance of learning correct social skills</strong><span class="o">.</span><div class="two_third first flex_column"><p><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/ted-baker-mood-board-port-magazine.jpg" alt="ted-baker-mood-board,-port-magazine" title="ted-baker-mood-board,-port-magazine" width="600" height="849" class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27655" /></p>
<div class="credit">Above: Ted Baker SS13 mood board </div>
</div><div class="one_third  flex_column"><p>Can you be old-school and contemporary at the same time? That&#8217;s exactly what British brand <a href="http://www.tedbaker.com" title="Ted Baker" target="_blank" class="white">Ted Baker</a> has set out to accomplish with its Spring Summer 2013 collection. Even though it might sound like a sartorial oxymoron, it actually works, both in theory and practice. What this means at check out levels is a collection of modern clothes, cut with a 21st century lifestyle in mind, but with old-fashioned manners and a mature attitude towards life in general as a moral backbone. Not many brands would dare set such ambitious goals, let alone follow through. Ted Baker, with chatty and affable founder Ray Kelvin CBE at the helm, has been pursuing these kind of fashion goals since the brand&#8217;s incarnation in Glasgow 25 years ago. The result is an ever-growing style business, evidently untouched by both recessions and fashion whims. &#8220;It&#8217;s down to an honest approach, design details and never short-changing our customers,&#8221; Kelvin explains.&#8221; We set out to over deliver, not to under promise!&#8221;</p>
<p>Kelvin and his design team are always on the look out for inspiration, whether its when visiting his Hampshire fishing cottage or shopping for Scandinavian ceramics from the 50s and 60s. But it&#8217;s not only products from that era that influence his work. The SS13 collection looks towards the level of etiquette that ruled our behaviour in the mid 20th century. &#8220;I was born in the 50s so maybe that explains my fascination with those decades,&#8221; Kelvin says. &#8220;People just knew how to behave towards each other back then, we don&#8217;t see much of that today – schools today could do with a bit of that attitude in their education programmes&#8221;. </p>
</div><br />
<img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/yuck-spacer.png" alt="" width="900" height="10" /></li>
<li><div class="one_third first flex_column"><p>Of course, back in the 50s and 60s, such knowledge was actually on the curriculum. &#8220;Pupils who needed to learn how to behave properly were sent for a term to finishing school in Switzerland. They were taught how to walk properly and how to behave correctly – basically, what to do and when.&#8221; This kind of charm school was made famous by the likes of the Château Mont-Choisi institute. But it&#8217;s a relic of a lost era; today only one such finishing school remains open in the Alps. Kelvin never got to attend any of the courses himself: &#8220;No, I graduated from the &#8216;School of Hard Knocks&#8217;&#8221;, he says. But except for his &#8216;degree in life&#8217;, Kelvin also attended University and got himself a business doctorate from Bath.</p>
</div><div class="one_third  flex_column"><p>&#8220;I wasn&#8217;t very good with maths. It was only when they put a pound sign in front of the numbers that they made sense to me – I love business!&#8221; Back then, when Kelvin left school, only three percent went on to study at university. &#8220;It was more about practical skills at the time,&#8221; he says.</p>
<p>The charm school idea for SS13 goes beyond the actual products. For Kelvin, this is a behavioural concept. &#8220;It&#8217;s about wearing the right pieces for the right occasion, whether it&#8217;s a tennis game, the races or the Henley Regatta.&#8221; For SS13, Ted Baker menswear is all about strong colours and bright shades.</p>
</div><div class="one_third  flex_column"><p>&#8220;The clothes stand out – people will argue whether it&#8217;s fashionable colours or not, but that&#8217;s beside the point… it&#8217;s all about making a statement and cementing a style. There are no wishy-washy colours this time around, only punchy pop and hot colourways: pink, lemon and orange tones. We don&#8217;t so much follow trends as make up our own.&#8221; For this season, the key pieces to focus on according to Kelvin – whose hands-on approach includes checking every single item coming from the design studio – include linen chinos, half-sleeved shirts with detailed collars, mohair tailoring and bright knits. See, who said you couldn&#8217;t mix an old-school attitude with contemporary style?</p>
<p><a href="http//www.tedbaker.com" target="_blank" class="white" title="Ted Baker Menswear homepage">www.tedbaker.com</a></p>
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		<title>A Thousand Words: Hin Chua</title>
		<link>http://www.port-magazine.com/art-photography/a-thousand-words-hin-chua/</link>
		<comments>http://www.port-magazine.com/art-photography/a-thousand-words-hin-chua/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 09:00:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Alex Jackson</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Art & Photography]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.port-magazine.com/?p=27244</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The photographer on how an image of Portland came to embody a wider project - and all the personal the anxieties tied up in the process]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>The photographer on how an image of Portland came to embody a wider project &#8211; and all the personal the anxieties tied up in the process</strong></p>
<p><div class="one_third first flex_column"><p>I don&#8217;t clearly recollect making this photograph but in terms of what caught my eye, I guess it was that compositional conjunction and layering of various horizontal planes: the sky, the sea, the sand, the buildings, the greenery and the road. Interesting from an aesthetic sandwich-stack perspective but also appropriate in terms the subject I focus on – the transformations of one environment into another.</p>
<p><em><a href="http://www.hinius.net/atf.php" target="_blank">After the Fall</a></em> is a personal project that began six years ago, I’ve visited 137 towns and cities across 18 countries searching for environments that exist in a state of impermanence; fragile and fleeting. These silent hand-overs speak to something deeper within our collective memories: the loss of places we once knew, reminders of the inevitability of change, a farewell to personal Edens.</p>
</div><div class="two_third  flex_column"><div id="attachment_27254" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 620px"><img class="wp-image-27254 " title="Hin Chua, Portland 2011" src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/2.Hin-Chua_Portland-2011.jpg" alt="Hin Chua, Portland 2011" width="610" height="485" />
<p class="wp-caption-text">Hin Chua, Portland 2011</p>
</div>
</div><div class="one_third first flex_column"><p><span class="o">.</span></p>
</div><div class="one_third  flex_column"><p>And there are moments assailed by fear and doubt, when the nagging voices within rise to a crescendo. I can&#8217;t recall the exact cause, but on the day I made this photograph, I spent a great deal of time questioning myself:</p>
<p>&#8220;I&#8217;ve been working on this project for so goddamn long. Am I just deluded? Does my work have enough heart? Have I become too obsessed with things that other people can&#8217;t see? Look at how well everyone else is doing. They&#8217;re out hustling all the time, they&#8217;re everywhere! Why am I not bloody everywhere? Everyone says they&#8217;re spending all their time working in their studios… I don&#8217;t even have a studio.</p>
</div></p>
<div class="one_third  flex_column"><p>&#8220;<em>Am</em> I just repeating myself and stagnating? I need to reference more writers… or poets… or philosophers… or something. And I&#8217;ve got to refer to my work as my &#8216;practise&#8217;, that&#8217;ll help. But hang on, what if playing the self-indulgence card is just a morally convenient excuse for not pushing myself..?&#8221;</p>
<p>
<div class="one_third  flex_column"></div>
<p>Like I say, I don&#8217;t clearly recollect making this photograph (nor how my mood eventually improved) but months later, I stumbled across it in one of my contact sheets. Gradually, over time, it wormed its way into my affections, an upbeat ending to a long and trying day. A reminder to acknowledge my doubts but never to submit to them.<br />
<a href="http://www.hinius.net/" target="_blank"><br />
<em>See more by Hin here</em></a></p>
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		<title>The Hermès Coffee Cup Holder</title>
		<link>http://www.port-magazine.com/fashion/the-hermes-coffee-cup-holder/</link>
		<comments>http://www.port-magazine.com/fashion/the-hermes-coffee-cup-holder/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 May 2013 10:39:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Port Magazine</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.port-magazine.com/?p=27363</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Photographer Christian Alegria and stylist Michele Rafferty look closer at the ultimate luxury item, a fine leather cup holder from the French House]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Photographer Christian Alegria and stylist Michele Rafferty look closer at the ultimate luxury item, a fine leather cup holder from the French House</strong></p>
<p>Sipping your cappuccino from a paper cup can be aesthetically disappointing. Perhaps a first world problem, but enjoying your increasingly rarified caffeine hit whilst protecting your hands from a scalding is a real concern. The accoutrements of the take-away coffee have, until now, been largely ignored. Your phone has a cover, your iPad a sleeve and laptop a case&#8230; now the lowly cardboard cup can be upgraded and the drinking experience enhanced. The Hermès coffee cup holder is discreetly slipped to your favourite barrista who can then ease your vanilla latte into this luxury receptacle. Just be sure to snatch it back quick before they scrawl your name on it with a marker pen&#8230; </p>
<p>For more info, click <a href="http://www.hermes.com" target="_blank">here</a></p>
<p>Photography <strong>Christian Alegria</strong><br />
Words and styling <strong>Michele Rafferty</strong></p>
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		<title>Tictail: The Future of E-commerce?</title>
		<link>http://www.port-magazine.com/fashion/tictail-the-future-of-e-commerce/</link>
		<comments>http://www.port-magazine.com/fashion/tictail-the-future-of-e-commerce/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 May 2013 09:39:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David Hellqvist</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Feature]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.port-magazine.com/?p=27359</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Carl Waldekranz is one of four founding Tictail members, hellbent on becoming the Tumblr of E-commerce and changing the way we set up online stores]]></description>
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<li><strong>Carl Waldekranz is one of four founding Tictail members, hellbent on becoming the Tumblr of E-commerce and changing the way we set up online stores</strong><br />
<img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/PORT-Web-Shop-Karl-920201.jpg" alt="PORT-Web-Shop-Karl-920201, Tictail feature" title="PORT-Web-Shop-Karl-920201, Tictail feature" width="930" height="664" class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27428" /><br />
<div class="one_half first flex_column"><div class="credit">Text <strong>David Hellqvist</strong><br />
Photography <strong>Morgan O&#8217;Donovan</strong></div>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p>Carl Waldekranz, a 27 year old Swedish Internet entrepreneur, got his big break seven years ago. He had just left school, desperate to start up his own business. The first client Super-Strikes, his first creative agency, signed up with was another tiny start-up in the Stockholm area called Spotify. Needless to say, that&#8217;s a pretty good first client by any standard, especially for a teenager working out of his kitchen. Over the following years, right up to Spotify&#8217;s US launch, Waldekranz and his colleague, Kaj Drobin, helped develop the typeface, illustration style and webpage design for the company. </p>
<p>&#8220;At the time, Kaj and I had developed Keyflow, the world&#8217;s first digital guest list system, which all the clubs in Stockholm started using &#8211; it was pretty sweet as it gave us an income and access to the nightclubs,&#8221; Waldekranz explains. &#8220;One day a friend came by the office, he had just received the first beta version of Spotify and my head just exploded &#8211; it was so cool. I asked who was behind it and got an email address to Sophia Bendz, today the Global Marketing Director at Spotify. So I emailed her asking for an invite to Spotify, which she very politely refused. At that point I should probably have given up but I emailed back saying, &#8216;I completely understand but it&#8217;s very hard, I feel like I&#8217;ve developed a drug-addiction and I must see more! Tell you what, I&#8217;ll get you on all the guest lists of Stockholm&#8217;s nightclubs for the rest of the summer and maybe I&#8217;ll see you in one sometime&#8217;&#8221; That  was the beginning of a fruitful collaboration, and the very beginning of what was to become Tictail.</p>
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<img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/yuck-spacer.png" alt="" width="900" height="10" /></li>
<li><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/PORT-Web-Shop-Karl-923004.jpg" alt="PORT-Web-Shop-Karl-923004-Tictail feat" title="PORT-Web-Shop-Karl-923004-Tictail feat" width="930" height="664" class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27429" /><br />
<div class="one_half first flex_column"><p>Still based in Stockholm, Sweden, Tictail is part of a new generation of E-commerce network sites that enable smaller businesses to trade online. As many retailers know, setting up a cyber shop is not only complicated but also an expensive operation. Today there&#8217;s a range of sites that allow you to follow a simple template programme and start trading soon after, for free or with minimal costs. All you need is stock and a Paypal account. For Waldekranz, having grown up with the democratised idea of the Internet as guidance, there&#8217;s no doubt this is the way forward for small and mid-sized companies when it comes to establishing themselves online &#8211; in itself a must for any business with survival ambitions. </p>
<p>&#8220;I compare E-commerce to blogs. I&#8217;ve always liked Tumblr and always used it. By combining easy, pretty and social aspects it became the world&#8217;s most popular blog platform. They changed the blog format: they ceased to be just about publishing facts and content and became about self-expression with people posting just one image at a time. I think it&#8217;s interesting to think about Tictail in the same way as Tumblr &#8211; making it easy, pretty and social, we are redefining what an online store is and we&#8217;re making them widely available in the same way Tumblr did for blogs. We&#8217;re making it easier for people by changing the format of what an online store can actually be.&#8221;</p>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p>Having grown Super-Strikes as much as possible, Waldekranz and Drobin sold their company to a big time Swedish creative agency, which allowed the duo to carry on working with Spotify and new clients, such as Nokia, without worrying too much about the financial side of the business. That point of view also became the very reason they left: &#8220;The values, culture and ideas of a big consultancy agency was very different. I remember the first week there; we&#8217;d just delivered a project and had been working 24-hour shifts, but we felt things had gone well. And then we had a meeting with our project leader who essentially said it had been a catastrophe! The project had gone way over budget as we&#8217;d put in more hours than the client had paid for but it was the only way we could have done it and that was a struggle for me to comprehend.&#8221; The decision to leave and start a new company on their own, just like after high school, wasn&#8217;t a difficult one in the end &#8211; but what would they do, what would be the focus of this new adventure?</p>
</div><br />
<img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/yuck-spacer.png" alt="" width="900" height="10" /></li>
<li><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/PORT-Web-Shop-Karl-921002.jpg" alt="PORT-Web-Shop-Karl-Tictail feature" title="PORT-Web-Shop-Karl--Tictail feature" width="930" height="664" class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27430" /><br />
<div class="one_half first flex_column"><p>&#8220;At the time we&#8217;d been doing a lot of E-commerce sites and for me, from a marketing and communications standpoint, E-commerce is so interesting because traditionally the message and the action is separate: you&#8217;d have a poster saying &#8216;Buy shoes!&#8217; and then the action was that you&#8217;d have to go to a store to buy them. From a design standpoint I think E-commerce is brilliant because the communication and the action converge perfectly: you&#8217;ll have a well-designed message or experience and immediately you can see a result in the business side of things &#8211; and I think that&#8217;s always been what drives me, how branding and design are essential parts of a good business.&#8221;</p>
<p>Like all the best things in life, Tictail was born in an organic way. The knowledge and ambition was there, the duo &#8211; plus newly recruited Birk Nilson &#8211; just needed an area to apply it on. The E-commerce angle was always there, right underneath their noses. But there was another reason as well, a question mark regarding online retail that they needed an answer for: &#8220;We thought that it was strange that you could sit on a plane and have a video conversation on an iPad with someone on the other side of the world and it felt like mainstream technology, but that &#8211; even in 2013 &#8211; to create a simple online store that&#8217;s just beautiful and doesn&#8217;t cost a fortune was still a hassle!&#8221;</p>
</div></p>
<div class="one_half  flex_column"><p>Another sign of a well thought-out strategy, the trio didn&#8217;t resign straight away from their current jobs &#8211; they all stayed and essentially worked double shifts for six months. &#8220;We all carried on our day jobs but said we&#8217;d meet up every weekend in my kitchen to work on development and design from Friday to Sunday and every month we&#8217;d put half of our salaries into a joint savings account to get our starting capital. So we&#8217;d sit down and just hack away right through to Sunday.&#8221; The benchmark for the Tictail concept became Waldekranz&#8217;s mother. &#8220;She runs a quirky porcelain business that does old-school tattoos on Chinese porcelain but it&#8217;s a good business and has good following of people who collect her stuff. We were thinking how would we take brands, like my mother&#8217;s, who are superb at branding but know nothing about technology, and help them become really great at E-commerce too?&#8221; Tictail was born from this desire to push boundaries, just like all the other Waldekranz adventures.</p>
</div>
<p><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/yuck-spacer.png" alt="" width="900" height="10" /></li>
<li><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/PORT-Web-Shop-Karl-928709.jpg" alt="PORT-Web-Shop-Karl-928709" title="PORT-Web-Shop-Karl-928709" width="930" height="664" class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27441" /><br />
<div class="one_half first flex_column"><p>Once all set to go, the guys decided to move to Silicon Valley. &#8220;On the first day of Tictail we got on a plane! Our assumption was that when you go to Silicon Valley, you have to have a splash screen where you can sign-up for the beta version when it&#8217;s released, a blog and a jobs vacancy page. We were only able to tick off the first two due to time constraints.&#8221; But instead of having an official jobs page, Tictail put a line in the source code of the page that read, &#8216;If you find this, you&#8217;re probably as eager a developer as we are, write us a line and we&#8217;ll meet for coffee’. &#8220;This was May 2011 and no-one knew about us, my mother didn&#8217;t even know I&#8217;d quit my job. A month later, back in Stockholm, Birk calls me and says, ‘Carl, somebody just sent us an email!’ So Birk called him and they spoke for about an hour and a half &#8211; just aboutt the internet! We invited him to come over to the office the day after.&#8221; That person was Siavash Ghorbani, the fourth founding Tictail member.</p>
</div> <div class="one_half  flex_column"><p>Today, Tictail employs ten staffers and the E-commerce network supports 10,000 stores. Quite tellingly, Waldekranz is as proud of his nine colleagues as all those clients. The reason being that any company is only as good as the people working for them, and when everyone&#8217;s come together in such a random and fortune way as with Tictail, then they become even more valuable. &#8220;This idea of people is something we come back to at Tictail all the time. Sometimes in interviews people ask us how did we come up with the idea but the idea was just to create the most beautiful E-commerce platform &#8211; not a difficult idea to come up with, it&#8217;s not like you have to be a maths professor. It&#8217;s just evolution: services become cheaper, they become smarter &#8211; we&#8217;re essentially just part of the evolution of technology. But what makes Tictail special was the putting together of this team…&#8221;</p>
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		<title>Selborne Ornithology: Alain de Botton on Gilbert White</title>
		<link>http://www.port-magazine.com/commentary/selborne-ornithology-alain-de-botton-on-gilbert-white/</link>
		<comments>http://www.port-magazine.com/commentary/selborne-ornithology-alain-de-botton-on-gilbert-white/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 11:51:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Alex Jackson</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Commentary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Feature]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Literature]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[The philosopher and writer champions a little-known 18th century curate who transformed how we view the natural world]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<ul id="slider">
<li><strong>The philosopher and writer talks to Alex Jackson about Gilbert White, a little-known 18th century curate who transformed how we view the natural world</strong>
<p><div class="one_half first flex_column"><p><img class="size-full wp-image-27524" title="Barn-Swallow,-RSPB" src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Barn-Swallow-RSPB.jpg" alt="Swallow, RSPB illustration" width="450" height="396" /></p>
<div class="credit”>Interview by <strong>Alex Jackson</strong></div>
<div class="credit">Above: Swallow illustration, courtesy of RSPB</div>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p>It’s easy to lose sight of the oddity of sharing the earth with the animals. To help us to remember, in 1789 Gilbert White, a curate in the small Hampshire village of Selborne, published <em>The Natural History of Selborne</em>. In it, he set out to reveal that even in the tamest English village there were some extraordinary creatures in motion. Rather than feature as incidentals to the activities of people, the creatures held centre stage. To readers who might hitherto have considered only their fellow humans, it also offered a set of implicit suggestions, which I set out in the three chapters below, as to why the animal kingdom might prove of unusual value to us.</p>
<p><strong>Other Perspectives</strong></p>
<p>White leads us to focus on the number of animals who live alongside us – but who we typically ignore. White prompted readers to abandon their usual perspective to consider for a time how the world might look through other eyes.</p>
<p>In the autumn of 1771, he began a letter to his friend Thomas Pennant, a zoologist in London, informing him of some important departures from the village:</p>
<p><em>&#8220;Swallows and martins… have forsaken us sooner this year than usual; At the dawn of the day, which was foggy, they arose all together in infinite numbers, occasioning such a rushing from the strokes of their wings against the hazy air, as might be heard to a considerable distance.&#8221;</em></p>
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<p><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/yuck-spacer.png" alt="" width="900" height="10" /></li>
<li><div class="one_half first flex_column"><p>Martins and swallows were but one example of the many life forms coexisting so unobtrusively alongside humans; and for which familiar objects and places had entirely different meanings (the village inn’s sign was a convenient resting place for a martin; one swallow had made a nest in a gentleman’s hat). White’s book, which rooted the observation of animals in a specific human context, naturally encourages us to consider how everything might seem to a swallow – and hence to appreciate the narrowness of our previous view of reality.</p>
<p>Why might this be interesting, or even inspiring? Perhaps because unhappiness often stems from having only one perspective to play with, from the world having grown too narrow.</p>
<p>When feeling out of sympathy with our era and the values of the elite, there may be relief in coming upon reminders of the diversity of life on the planet, in holding in mind that alongside the business of the great people of the land, there are also swallows who build nests and quietly set off over the English Channel for Madagascar.</p>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27523" title="House-Martin, RSPB" src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/House-Martin.jpg" alt="House-Martin, RSPB" width="450" height="563" /></p>
<div class="credit">House Martin illustration, courtesy of RSPB</div>
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<p><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/yuck-spacer.png" alt="" width="900" height="10" /></li>
<li><div class="one_half first flex_column"><p><strong>Wonder</strong></p>
<p>It seems certain things count as serious observations about animals and others don’t. It sounds highly serious to point out that hedgehogs have short posterodorsal maprocesses of maxillae, but it sounds rather less respectable to exclaim that they’re simply extraordinary-looking.</p>
<p>We might blame modern science for this censorship, for it encourages patient classification rather than emotional spasms. White, living before this vision of scientific seriousness had taken root, had greater freedom: He did not speak idly in referring to animals as ‘the wonders of Creation’; like many of his contemporaries White believed God had put stripes on the tiger and the antlers on the deer.</p>
<p>The belief may have been nonsense but the attitude which it inspired was less so, for it led White to express sentiments of uninhibited wonder about animals – which we have in subsequent ages grown shy of giving vent to. White’s tone of wonder is in evidence in his descriptions of a friend’s tortoise:</p>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27530" title="hedgehog-metropolitan-museum-of-art" src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/hedgehog-metropolitan-museum-of-art.jpg" alt="hedgehog-metropolitan-museum-of-art" width="450" height="308" /></p>
<p><em>“No part of its behaviour ever struck me more than the extreme timidity it always expresses with regard to rain; for though it has a shell that would secure it against the wheel of a loaded cart, yet does it discover as much solicitude about rain as a lady dressed in all her best attire.”</em></p>
<p>It may be clear to us that God didn’t make the tortoise, but we should thank White’s belief that he did for allowing him to express wonder &#8211; and so for helping us to nurture our own.</p>
<div class="credit">Above: European hedgehog 19th century engraving. Courtesy Metropolitan Museum</div>
</div></p>
<p><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/yuck-spacer.png" alt="" width="900" height="10" /></li>
<li><div class="one_half first flex_column"><p><strong>The Amateur Explorer </strong></p>
<p>White had another advantage: much about animals was still unknown; there was no predetermined corpus of knowledge to master. So reading White evokes the excitement that all subjects take on when we feel we could move from the rank of pupil to explorer. White was struck by a host of questions: Why do cats like eating fish so much? Can bees hear anything? And because no one knew, White carried out some touchingly homespun investigations:</p>
<p><em>It does not appear from experiment that bees are in any way capable of being affected by sounds: for I have often tried my own with a large speaking-trumpet held close to their hives, and with such an exertion of voice as would have hailed a ship at the distance of a mile, and still these insects pursued their various employments undisturbed, and without showing the least sensibility or resentment.</em></p>
<p>It may be good for science that so many facts are now known – it may be a sadder thing for the curiosity of most mortals. We cannot return to White’s ignorance but we may still be inspired by his engaged relationship with the animal world. We may not make original discoveries in science but we still have the option to follow our own curiosity.</p>
<p><em><a href="http://www.alaindebotton.com/" target="_blank">Click here to enjoy more of Alain&#8217;s work, via his website</a></em></p>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27541" title="bumble-bee etching" src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/bumble-bee.jpg" alt="bumble-bee etching" width="450" height="416" /></p>
<div class="credit">Above: Bumble bee etching circa 1870s</div>
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		<title>Clerkenwell Design Week is Assembling 200 Chairs</title>
		<link>http://www.port-magazine.com/design/clerkenwell-design-week-is-assembling-200-chairs/</link>
		<comments>http://www.port-magazine.com/design/clerkenwell-design-week-is-assembling-200-chairs/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 May 2013 10:17:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Stephanie Kukulka</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Design]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.port-magazine.com/?p=27491</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[With CDW launching today, we take a closer look at the installation by Assemble Studios – a landscape of 200 chairs ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>With CDW launching today, we take a closer look at the installation by Assemble Studios – a landscape of 200 chairs </strong></p>
<p>Stratford-based design and architectural collective, <a href="http://assemblestudio.co.uk/" target="_blank">Assemble</a>, are set to unveil their ambitious 200 Chairs installation today, commissioned as part of Clerkenwell Presents.</p>
<p>Elegantly conceived, yet designed for low-cost production, the chair’s tessellating triangular structure offers stability (when standing on any surface) whilst also being lightweight. Manufactured at their Sugarhouse studio, (their construction documented here), the chairs are a prototype with instruction manuals for their construction available free of charge at the festival. </p>
<p>On the eve of their unveiling, design manufacturer James Binning was quietly confident about their success, saying “the process has gone very well”. The chair’s production involved “a lot of repetitive tasks; the key has been to make very accurate and speedy jigs&#8230; Having a good jig is like having several handy assistants,” James added.</p>
<p>Appearing in a variety of arrangements across CDW (shown left), the chairs are designed to encourage discussion and interaction with their surroundings by providing a facility for the public to engage with, as well as react to, particularly the size of their configuration and surprising (sometimes bizarre) layouts.</p>
<p><em>Keep up-to-date with 200 Chairs and other installations at <a href="http://www.clerkenwelldesignweek.com/" title="Clerkenwell Design Week 2013" target="_blank">Clerkenwell Design Week</a> runs from 21-23 May in various locations around London</em> </p>
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		<title>Exclusive: AMI for Mr Porter</title>
		<link>http://www.port-magazine.com/fashion/exclusive-ami-for-mr-porter/</link>
		<comments>http://www.port-magazine.com/fashion/exclusive-ami-for-mr-porter/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 May 2013 11:27:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>David Hellqvist</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.port-magazine.com/?p=27469</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[French designer Alexandre Mattiussi presents his capsule collection for the online retailer]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>French designer Alexandre Mattiussi presents his capsule collection for the online retailer</strong></p>
<div id="attachment_27471" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 940px"><img class="size-full wp-image-27471" title="Collection overview AMI, Mr Porter - denim jacket, khaki shorts, stripy cashmere and check shirts" src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/MG_8455main-perspective-copy.jpg" alt="Collection overview AMI, Mr Porter - denim jacket, khaki shorts, stripy cashmere and check shirts" width="930" height="570" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Capsule overview: denim jackets, khaki shorts, stripy cashmere and check shirts</p></div>
<p><div class="one_half first flex_column"><p>&#8220;You have to keep it simple and authentic. Style is definitely not just a question of clothes.&#8221; <a href="http://www.amiparis.fr/" target="_blank">Alexandre Mattiussi</a> is spot on. His take on fashion not only refers to clothes &#8211; it&#8217;s about style and, more precisely, a certain lifestyle. The Paris-based designer and his <a href="http://www.amiparis.fr/" target="_blank">AMI</a> brand refuses to let fashion dictate his creative output: &#8220;I just do clothes that I love to wear. I try to keep it elegant, effortless, cool and realistic. I don’t do fashion for fashion. I like to see people wearing my clothes. And feeling good in them.&#8221; For <a href="http://www.mrporter.com/Shop/Designers/Ami" target="_blank">Mattiussi</a>, the end product is part of the story and the customer is integral to the process, rather than just a bloke buying his clothes. &#8220;It’s more about the attitude than the clothes themselves because AMI is not a concept. The story we tell is a story of a guy you know, a brother, a boyfriend, a friend.&#8221;</p>
<p>That&#8217;s why Mattiussi&#8217;s latest retail adventure, having recently opened up his first standalone store in Paris, makes complete sense. In collaboration with online retailers <a href="http://www.mrporter.com/" target="_blank">Mr Porter</a>, the former Dior Homme and Givenchy employee is this week launching an exclusive capsule collection. Mr Porter is only a few years old and, like AMI, still the new kid on the block. Nevertheless, thanks to a focused buying team and a trail blazing attitude towards editorial retail, the <a href="http://www.net-a-porter.com/" target="_blank">Net-a-Porter</a> brother has quickly settled in to the cyber throne in the church of E-commerce. The collaboration series, part of spring push from Mr Porter, also include capsule collections from <a href="http://www.mrporter.com/Shop/Designers/Raf_Simons" target="_blank">Raf Simons</a>, <a href="http://www.mrporter.com/Shop/Designers/Alexander_Wang" target="_blank">Alexander Wang</a>, <a href="http://www.mrporter.com/Shop/Designers/Beams_Plus" target="_blank">Beams Plus</a> and <a href="http://www.mrporter.com/Shop/Designers/Globe_Trotter/All" target="_blank">Globe-Trotter</a>.</p>
<p>Consisting of the kind of understated and subtle pieces AMI has already made into a signature look, the collection boasts a denim jacket, khaki shorts, stripy cashmere and check shirts &#8211; the ultimate holiday wardrobe:</p>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27473" title="_MG_9054-copy" src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/MG_9054-copy.jpg" alt="_MG_9054-copy" width="450" height="675" /></p>
</div><br />
<div class="one_half first flex_column"><p>&#8220;I just imagined a guy at a &#8216;terrace de café&#8217; in summer having a break with friends. I always project the clothes with someone in mind. It&#8217;s pieces that you could wear easily. Kind of timeless pieces you could wear for a longtime.&#8221;</p>
<p>&#8220;For this exclusive capsule, I used bright colours like purple, blue and navy but also beige on timeless pieces; an Oxford t-shirt, a washed cotton military jacket and light denim jacket, a deep blue brogue. I like to match things together. It’s like when you open anyone’s closet, you won’t find only black and white clothes in it.&#8221;</p>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p>This is the strength of AMI, one that Mr Porter appreciates. The collection, like mainline AMI, is part of long term wardrobe solution, not a clothes suitable for a fashion whim. These are the sort of clothes that define Mr Porter, as it should be. Arguably, clothes as expensive as these should be seen as an investment rather than the result of an impulse.</p>
<div class="credit">Words <strong>David Hellqvist</strong><br />
Photography <strong>Linda Brownlee</strong><br />
Styling <strong>Dan May</strong></div>
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		<title>Anatomy of an Actor: Marlon Brando</title>
		<link>http://www.port-magazine.com/film/anatomy-of-an-actor-marlon-brando/</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 20 May 2013 10:36:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Port Magazine</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Feature]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Film]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[As the Cannes film festival continues, journalist and author Florence Colombani explains <em>The Godfather</em> actor’s brilliance and legacy]]></description>
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<li><strong>As the Cannes film festival continues, journalist and author Florence Colombani here explains <em>The Godfather</em> actor’s brilliance and legacy</strong><br />
<img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27444" title="127-haut_Le-Parrain_Brando-et-Coppola" src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/127-haut_Le-Parrain_Brando-et-Coppola.jpg" alt="The Godfather, Marlon Brando and Francis Ford Coppola" width="930" height="660" /></p>
<div class="one_half first flex_column"><div class="credit">Interview <strong>Rooksana Hossenally</strong></div>
<div class="credit">Above: Marlon Brando and Francis Ford Coppola on-set, <em>The Godfather</em></div>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p>In conjunction with the Cannes festival, influential French film magazine <em>Cahiers du Cinéma</em> and British book publisher Phaidon recently launched the latest edition in their <em>Anatomy of an Actor</em> series. As the stars gather for glittery film premieres, we spoke to Florence Colombani about her book on Marlon Brando. Having changed how actors work forever, Brando’s character &#8211; on and off screen &#8211; are still very much shrouded in mystery &#8211; but his radical yearning to “disappear into a role” has left an inspiring legacy. The journalist and author, who also directs films, here explains Brando’s USP as an actor:</p>
<p>&#8220;Marlon Brando, as an actor, made a strong artistic contribution and I wanted to explore how an actor’s performance is a piece of art in itself. We know that an actor can play a very significant role in making or breaking a film but the exact reasons for liking a certain actor aren’t always clear to us. There are lots of books on Brando already, but something providing a real reflection on this artist’s secret didn’t exist, which is one of the reasons why I chose to write a book about him and his oeuvre.</p>
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<p><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/yuck-spacer.png" alt="" width="900" height="10" /></li>
<li><div class="one_half first flex_column"><p>Brando wasn’t like any other actor. After Picasso, there was no-one who could paint like him, and it’s the same for Brando. His legacy has continued to inspire actors – he revolutionised the role of the actor, changing it forever. Brando encapsulated the perfect balance between the intellectual and physical capacities of an actor, which was very rare, especially as he had a profound understanding of literature. He went to incredible lengths to create a whole other person, a whole other world. His animalistic qualities and his unrivalled sensitivity, his physical transformations, and above all else, his improvisations, make him a genius.</p>
<p>Earning him worldwide fame, Marlon Brando’s Stanley Kowalski in <em>A Streetcar Named Desire </em>(1951), was a very masculine and macho character. This was the real discovery of Brando as an artist and his talent for literary interpretation. He had a perfect balance between the role’s attributes and who he really was.</p>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27450" title="16_Tramway_photo-groupe_NB" src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/16_Tramway_photo-groupe_NB.jpg" alt="16_Tramway_photo-groupe_NB" width="450" height="356" /></p>
<div class="credit">Above: <em>Streetcar Named Desire</em> group shot</div>
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<p><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/yuck-spacer.png" alt="" width="900" height="10" /></li>
<li><div class="one_half first flex_column"><p>In <em>On the Waterfront </em>(1954), he plays the character of Terry Malloy, a very romantic, poetic character. Terry is a boxer, and Brando having been a boxer, liked the role. The mix between the brutality of the character and sensitivity is what I admire the most; also because a lot of his acting was improvised. In the scene where Brando walks along the river with a future lover, for example, the actress accidentally drops a glove, which the actor spontaneously picks up and slips on, not cutting the scene and adding another very discreet dimension, reinforcing Terry Malloy’s eroticism in a single gesture.</p>
<p>On a more personal level, I really liked Brando’s Weldon Penderton in<em> Reflections in a Golden Eye</em> (1967), who is a sexually repressed and fragile character where understanding his real desires would lead to his whole life falling apart. In this role, we see a completely different Brando.</p>
<p>For <em>Last Tango in Paris </em>(1972), he plays Paul, an American expatriate and hotel owner living in Paris. Recording scene of Brando’s monologue by the side of his deceased wife’s grave, Bertolucci asked Brando to share real childhood memories – and unrehearsed, Brando blew everyone away. The lines between play and reality are blurred. It was an extremely moving performance.</p>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27448" title="31_César_Brando-lisant" src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/31_César_Brando-lisant.jpg" alt="31_César_Brando-lisant" width="450" height="554" /></p>
<div class="credit">Brando rehearsing for<br />
<em>Julius Ceasar</em>, 1953</div>
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<p><img src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/yuck-spacer.png" alt="" width="900" height="10" /></li>
<li><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-27452" title="161_Apocalypse-now_insecte" src="http://www.port-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/161_Apocalypse-now_insecte.jpg" alt="161_Apocalypse-now_insecte" width="930" height="695" /><br />
<div class="one_half first flex_column"><p>I would also have to say that he was excellent in <em>The Godfather</em> (1972), just because of the way Brando looks, his body language and constant improvisations. He gives a very strong performance as Don Vito Corleone, which is his most iconic role; extremely powerful. His presence is enough so that he doesn’t need to shout to show anger, he whispers.</p>
<p>The impact created by the overlap between Brando and his roles is central to his talent. He was a beautiful man but he never used his good looks to an end; instead he always chose roles that would push and explore the intellectual aspect of the character but its physicality too. For Terry, who had been a boxer, he had a broken nose, in <em>The Godfather</em> he was almost unrecognisable, as Sakini in <em>The Teahouse of the August Moon</em> he is made up to look like a Japanese character and in <em>Apocalypse Now</em> (1979), as Colonel Walter E. Kurtz, his head is shaven and he’d put on quite a bit of weight.</p>
</div><div class="one_half  flex_column"><p>Although he was successful, he lived it with much difficulty. As a young man, Brando was taunted by his father about his aspirations, resulting in a shameful opinion of a job as an actor. That’s also what pushed him to completely disappear into his roles – this desire to escape his father’s judgment, to escape himself.”</p>
<div class="credit">Above: Brando in <em>Apocalypse now</em> (1979)</div>
<p><em><a title="Phaidon.com / Marlon Brando: Anatomy of an Actor by Florence Colombani" href="http://uk.phaidon.com/store/cahiers-du-cinema/marlon-brando-anatomy-of-an-actor-9780714866635/" target="_blank" class="white">Marlon Brando: Anatomy of an Actor, Cahiers du Cinéma </a>is available now through Phaidon</em></p>
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