David Hellqvist examines the subtle wardrobe of Harry Diamond – the enigmatic street photographer who captured London’s art scene in the 60s and 70s
Today, ‘street style’ photographers follow celebrities around and post their images on blogs immediately. It’s a hollow business, often devoid of any genuine interest in the person. But back in the 1960s and 70s, it was photographers like Harry Diamond who documented London’s creative elite. Diamond wasn’t skulking outside the houses of painters Francis Bacon and Lucian Freud – he was part of the scene. He shot the artists who, in turn, asked the photographer to sit for them.
During two portrait sittings – one in 1951 and the other in 1970 – in Paddington, northwest London, Freud captured Diamond’s slender and nervous-looking figure. But, looking back, what stands out is Diamond’s subtle wardrobe. Even though they’re almost 20 years apart, both of his portraits speak of a sparse glamour; plain staples in beige, brown and white shades dominate his outfits. Around Soho, London, Diamond was dubbed ‘the man in the mac’ due to his choice of coat. His stylishness probably wasn’t conscious, but well-made quality basics were hard to come by, and the subtle colour choices helped the otherwise anonymous clothes stand out. Diamond and his contemporaries sported an art school style, characterised by unbuttoned formalwear. They lived and worked at a time when the term ‘casualwear’ was established and defined. This was before the introduction of sportswear as everyday clothing, and long after the formal Victorian dress code – a suit, tie, shirt and hat – had died out.
Today, Bacon and Freud are not only recognised masters of art but also widely acknowledged style icons. This AW15 season, brands such as Dunhill, Lou Dalton, Fendi and Paul Smith all look to their bohemian and boozy Soho lifestyles for inspiration. But, whereas Bacon and Freud have been religiously examined, men like Harry Diamond were able to dress and live outside the limelight, making for a more interesting style study. It’s no wonder luxurious high-end brands have come back to this time and place to find inspiration. But sometimes, as Harry Diamond proves, it pays to look beyond the most obvious figureheads.
This article was taken from PORT issue 17. To buy a copy of PORT or to subscribe, click here
